Above you can watch what was arguably the first surf movie ever made–the very beginning of a long cinematic tradition that gave us Gidget in 1959, and The Endless Summer in 1966. And lest you think the surf movie reached its zenith during those halcyon days, some would argue that the best surf films were later produced during the aughts–Thicker Than Water (2000), Blue Crush (2002), Step Into Liquid (2003), Riding Giants (2004), etc. And don’t forget this great little short, “Dark Side of the Lens.”
In 1906, smack in the middle of the aughts of last century, Thomas Edison sent the pioneering cinematographer Robert K. Bonine to shoot an ‘Actuality‘ documentary about life in the Polynesian islands. The blurb accompanying this video describes the scene above: “The first moving pictures of surfers riding waves – Surf Riders, Waikiki Beach, Honolulu — shows a minute of about a dozen surfers on alaia boards in head-high, offshore surf at what is probably Canoes. These surfers are shot too far away to detail what they were wearing, but they all appear to be in tanksuits.”
If you’re interested in taking a deep dive into Hawaii’s surfing scene, I’d definitely recommend pickup up a copy of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, the memoir by New Yorker writer William Finnegan. It won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize.