While these tradesÂpeoÂple were called in whenÂevÂer an indusÂtriÂal chimÂney required repair or a steel beam was in need of weldÂing, many of the newsÂreels feaÂture iconÂic locaÂtions, such as New York City’s WoolÂworth BuildÂing, above, getÂting a good stonework cleanÂing in 1931.
In 1929, some “workÂmen acroÂbats” were engaged to adorn St. Peter’s BasilÂiÂca and the VatÂiÂcan with thouÂsands of lamps when Pope Pius XI, in his first offiÂcial act as pope, revived the pubÂlic traÂdiÂtion of Urbi et Orbi, a papal address and aposÂtolic blessÂing for the first time in fifty-two years.
Some genÂder boundÂaries got smashed in the afterÂmath of WWII, but “steepleÂjills” were novÂelÂty enough in 1948 that the scriptwriter preÂdictably milks it by havÂing the announcÂer crack wise to and about the unidenÂtiÂfied woman ready to climb all the way to the rim of a very tall smokeÂstack.
“There it is! That long thing pointÂing up there, it’s all yours!”
These days such a jib might conÂstiÂtute workÂplace harassÂment.
Did she get the job?
We don’t know. We hope so, whoÂevÂer she is — preÂsumÂably one of twenÂty female LonÂdonÂers respondÂing to the help wantÂed ad described in the LethÂbridge HerÂald, below:
SchĂĽtte-Lihotzky anaÂlyzed designs for kitchens in train dinÂing cars and made detailed time-motion studÂies of houseÂwives’ dinÂner prepaÂraÂtions in her quest to come up with someÂthing that would be space savÂing, effiÂcient, inexÂpenÂsiveÂly pre-fabÂriÂcatÂed, and easÂiÂly installed in the new housÂing springÂing up in post-WWI GerÂmany.
SchĂĽtte-Lihotzky hoped that her design would have a libÂerÂatÂing effect, by reducÂing the time women spent in the kitchen. NothÂing is left to chance in these 1.9 by 3.44 meters, with the main emphaÂsis placed on the well-travÂeled “goldÂen triÂanÂgle” between workÂtop, stove, and sink.
…as with any progress, there is fricÂtion and presÂsure. As women gain more rights (then and now), are they realÂly just adding more to their to-do list of responÂsiÂbilÂiÂties? Adding to the numÂber of plates they need to spin? They haven’t been excused from domesÂtic duties in order to purÂsue careers or employÂment, the new responÂsiÂbilÂiÂties are addiÂtive.
(Note: enter your inforÂmaÂtion to view the film.)
At the same time, she manÂages to teleÂgraph some posÂsiÂble Catch-22s.
Its diminuÂtive size dicÂtates that this workÂplace will be a soliÂtary one — no helpers, guests, or small chilÂdren.
The built-in expecÂtaÂtions regardÂing uniÂforÂmiÂty of use leaves litÂtle room for culiÂnary experÂiÂmenÂtaÂtion or a loosey goosey approach.
When crushÂingÂly repetÂiÂtive tasks begin to chafe, options for escape are limÂitÂed (if very well-suitÂed to the expresÂsive posÂsiÂbilÂiÂties of modÂern dance).
InterÂestÂingÂly, many assume that a female archiÂtect workÂing in 1926 would have brought some perÂsonÂal insights to the task that her male colÂleagues might have been lackÂing. Not so, as SchĂĽtte-Lihotzky readÂiÂly admitÂted:
The truth of the matÂter was, I’d nevÂer run a houseÂhold before designÂing the FrankÂfurt Kitchen, I’d nevÂer cooked, and had no idea about cookÂing.
Singer-songÂwriter Robert Rotifer is anothÂer artist who was moved to pay homage to SchĂĽtte-Lihotzky and the FrankÂfurt Kitchen, a “calÂcuÂlatÂed move” that he describes as someÂthing closÂer to designÂing a kitchen than “divine inspiÂraÂtion”:
I sat on the train travÂelÂing from CanÂterÂbury up to LonÂdon… I was about to record a new album, and I needÂed one more uptemÂpo song, someÂthing driÂving and rhythÂmiÂcal. While the noisy comÂbiÂnaÂtion of rickÂety train and worn-out tracks sugÂgestÂed a beat, I began to think about synÂcoÂpaÂtions and subÂjects.
I thought about the munÂdane things nobody usuÂalÂly writes songs about, funcÂtionÂal things that defy metaphor—tools, devices, houseÂhold goods. As I listÂed some items in my head, I soon realÂized that kitchen utenÂsils were the way to go. I thought about the mechanÂics of a kitchen, and that’s when the name of the creÂator of the famous FrankÂfurt Kitchen flashed up in my head.
There, in the natÂurÂal rhythm of her name, was the synÂcoÂpaÂtion I had been lookÂing for: “I sing this out to Grete SchĂĽtte-Lihotzky.” WritÂing the rest of the lyrics was easy. The repetÂiÂtive eleÂment would illusÂtrate the way you keep returnÂing to the same tasks and posiÂtions when you are workÂing in a kitchen. In the midÂdle-eight I would also find space for some of the critÂiÂcisms that have been levÂeled at SchĂĽtte-Lihotzky’s kitchen over the decades, such as the way her design isoÂlatÂed the kitchen workÂer, i.e. traÂdiÂtionÂalÂly the woman, from the rest of the famÂiÂly.
Rotifer, who also creÂatÂed the paintÂings used in the aniÂmatÂed music video, gives the archiÂtect her due by includÂing accomÂplishÂments beyond the FrankÂfurt Kitchen: her micro-apartÂment with “a disÂguised roll-out bed,” her terÂraced housÂes at the WerkÂbundÂsiedÂlung, a housÂing project’s kinderÂgarten, a printÂing shop, and the VienÂnese ComÂmuÂnist parÂty headÂquarÂters.
It’s a loveÂly tribÂute to a design pioÂneer who, reflectÂing on her long career around the time of her 100th birthÂday, remarked:
If I had known that everyÂone would keep talkÂing about nothÂing else, I would nevÂer have built that damned kitchen!
BrenÂda (laughÂing): Can you imagÂine a Taoist adverÂtisÂing agency? “Buy this if you feel like it. If it’s right. You may not need it.”
UrsuÂla: There was an old carÂtoon in The New YorkÂer with a guy from an adverÂtisÂing agency showÂing his ad and the boss is sayÂing “I think you need a litÂtle more enthuÂsiÂasm Jones.” And his ad is sayÂing, “Try our prodÂuct, it realÂly isn’t bad.”
PerÂhaps no ChiÂnese text has had more lastÂing influÂence in the West than the Tao Te Ching, a work so ingrained in our culÂture by now, it has become a “changeÂless conÂstant,” writes Maria PopoÂva. “Every genÂerÂaÂtion of admirÂers has felt, and conÂtinÂues to feel, a preÂscience in these ancient teachÂings so astonÂishÂing that they appear to have been writÂten for their own time.” It speaks directÂly to us, we feel, or at least, that’s how we can feel when we find the right transÂlaÂtion.
AdmirÂers of the Taoist clasÂsic have includÂed John Cage, Franz KafÂka, Bruce Lee, Alan Watts, and Leo TolÂstoy, all of whom were deeply affectÂed by the milÂlenÂnia-old philoÂsophÂiÂcal poetÂry attribÂuted to Lao Tzu. That’s some heavy comÂpaÂny for the rest of us to keep, maybe. It’s also a list of famous men. Not every readÂer of the Tao is male or approachÂes the text as the utterÂances of a patriÂarÂchal sage. One famous readÂer had the audacÂiÂty to spend decades on her own, non-genÂdered, non-hierÂarÂchiÂcal transÂlaÂtion, even though she didn’t read ChiÂnese.
It’s not quite right to call UrsuÂla Le Guin’s Tao Te Ching a transÂlaÂtion, so much as an interÂpreÂtaÂtion, or a “renÂdiÂtion,” as she calls it. “I don’t know ChiÂnese,” she said in an interÂview with BrenÂda PeterÂson, “but I drew upon the Paul Carus transÂlaÂtion of 1898 which has ChiÂnese charÂacÂters folÂlowed by a translitÂerÂaÂtion and a transÂlaÂtion.” She used the Carus as a “touchÂstone for comÂparÂing othÂer transÂlaÂtions,” and startÂed, in her twenÂties, “workÂing on these poems. Every decade or so I’d do anothÂer chapÂter. Every readÂer has to start anew with such an ancient text.”
Le Guin drew out inflecÂtions in the text which have been obscured by transÂlaÂtions that address the readÂer as a Ruler, Sage, MasÂter, or King. In her introÂducÂtion, Le Guin writes, “I wantÂed a Book of the Way accesÂsiÂble to a present-day, unwise, unpowÂerÂful, perÂhaps unmale readÂer, not seekÂing esoÂteric secrets, but lisÂtenÂing for a voice that speaks to the soul.” To immeÂdiÂateÂly get a sense of the difÂferÂence, we might conÂtrast ediÂtions of Arthur Waley’s transÂlaÂtion, The Way and Its PowÂer: a Study of the Tao Te Ching and Its Place in ChiÂnese Thought, with Le Guin’s Tao Te Ching: A Book about the Way and the PowÂer of the Way.
Waley’s transÂlaÂtion “is nevÂer going to be equaled for what it does,” servÂing as a “manÂuÂal for rulers,” Le Guin says. It was also designed as a guide for scholÂars, in most ediÂtions appendÂing around 100 pages of introÂducÂtion and 40 pages of openÂing comÂmenÂtary to the main text. Le Guin, by conÂtrast, reduces her ediÂtoÂrÂiÂal presÂence to footÂnotes that nevÂer overÂwhelm, and often don’t appear at all (one note just reads “so much for capÂiÂtalÂism”), as well as a few pages of endÂnotes on sources and variÂants. “I didn’t figÂure a whole lot of rulers would be readÂing it,” she said. “On the othÂer hand, peoÂple in posiÂtions of responÂsiÂbilÂiÂty, such as mothÂers, might be.”
Her verÂsion repÂreÂsents a lifeÂlong engageÂment with a text Le Guin took to heart “as a teenage girl” she says, and found throughÂout her life that “it obviÂousÂly is a book that speaks to women.” But her renÂderÂing of the poems does not subÂstanÂtialÂly alter the subÂstance. ConÂsidÂer the first two stanÂzas of her verÂsion of ChapÂter 11 (which she titles “The uses of not”) conÂtrastÂed with Waley’s CHAPTER XI.
Waley
We put thirÂty spokes togethÂer and call it a wheel; But it is on the space where there is nothÂing that the useÂfulÂness of the wheel depends. We turn clay to make a vesÂsel; But it is on the space where there is nothÂing that the useÂfulÂness of the vesÂsel depends.
Le Guin
ThirÂty spokes meet in the hub. Where the wheel isn’t is where is it’s useÂful.
HolÂlowed out, clay makes a pot. Where the pot’s not is where it’s useÂful.
Le Guin renÂders the lines as delightÂfulÂly folksy oppoÂsiÂtions with rhyme and repÂeÂtiÂtion. Waley piles up arguÂmenÂtaÂtive clausÂes. “One of the things I love about Lao Tzu is he is so funÂny,” Le Guin comÂments in her note,” a qualÂiÂty that doesn’t come through in many othÂer transÂlaÂtions. “He’s explainÂing a proÂfound and difÂfiÂcult truth here, one of those counÂterÂinÂtuÂitive truths that, when the mind can accept them, sudÂdenÂly douÂble the size of the uniÂverse. He goes about it with this deadÂpan simÂplicÂiÂty, talkÂing about pots.”
Such images capÂtiÂvatÂed the earthy anarÂchist Le Guin. She drew inspiÂraÂtion for the title of her 1971 novÂel The Lathe of HeavÂen from Taoist philosoÂpher Chuang Tzu, perÂhaps showÂing how she reads her own interÂests into a text, as all transÂlaÂtors and interÂpreters inevitably do. No transÂlaÂtion is definÂiÂtive. The borÂrowÂing turned out to be an examÂple of how even respectÂed ChiÂnese lanÂguage scholÂars can misÂread a text and get it wrong. She found the “lathe of heavÂen” phrase in James Legge’s transÂlaÂtion of Chuang Tzu, and latÂer learned on good authorÂiÂty that there were no lathÂes in ChiÂna in Chuang Tzu’s time. “Legge was a bit off on that one,” she writes in her notes.
ScholÂarÂly denÂsiÂty does not make for perÂfect accuÂraÂcy or a readÂable transÂlaÂtion. The verÂsions of Legge and sevÂerÂal othÂers were “so obscure as to make me feel the book must be beyond WestÂern comÂpreÂhenÂsion,” writes Le Guin. But as the Tao Te Ching announces at the outÂset: it offers a Way beyond lanÂguage. In Legge’s first few lines:
The Tao that can be trodÂden is not the endurÂing and unchangÂing Tao. The name that can be named is not the endurÂing and unchangÂing name.
Here is how Le Guin welÂcomes readÂers to the Tao — notÂing that “a satÂisÂfacÂtoÂry transÂlaÂtion of this chapÂter is, I believe, perÂfectÂly imposÂsiÂble — in the first poem she titles “TaoÂing”:
The way you can go isn’t the real way. The name you can say isn’t the real name.
HeavÂen and earth begin in the unnamed: name’s the mothÂer of the ten thouÂsand things.
So the unwantÂiÂng soul sees what’s hidÂden, and the ever-wantÂiÂng soul sees only what it wants.
Two things, one oriÂgin, but difÂferÂent in name, whose idenÂtiÂty is mysÂtery. MysÂtery of all mysÂterÂies! The door to the hidÂden.
As team names go, the HarÂvard ComÂputÂers has kind of an oddÂball ring to it, but it’s far preferÂable to Pickering’s Harem, as the female sciÂenÂtists brought in under the HarÂvard Observatory’s male direcÂtor were colÂlecÂtiveÂly referred to earÂly on in their 40-some years of serÂvice to the instiÂtuÂtion.
A posÂsiÂbly apocÂryphal stoÂry has it that DirecÂtor Edward PickÂerÂing was so frusÂtratÂed by his male assisÂtants’ pokey pace in examÂinÂing 1000s of phoÂtoÂgraphÂic plates bearÂing images of stars spotÂted by teleÂscopes in HarÂvard and the southÂern hemiÂsphere, he declared his maid could do a betÂter job.
If true, it was no idle threat.
In 1881, PickÂerÂing did indeed hire his maid, WilliamiÂna FlemÂing, to review the plates with a magÂniÂfyÂing glass, catÂaÂloguÂing the brightÂness of stars that showed up as smudges or grey or black spots. She also calÂcuÂlatÂed—aka computed—their posiÂtions, and, when posÂsiÂble, chemÂiÂcal comÂpoÂsiÂtion, colÂor, and temÂperÂaÂture.
The newÂly sinÂgle 23-year-old mothÂer was not uneÂdÂuÂcatÂed. She had served as a teacher for years priÂor to emiÂgratÂing from ScotÂland, but when her husÂband abanÂdoned her in Boston, she couldn’t afford to be fussy about the kind of employÂment she sought. WorkÂing at the PickÂerÂings meant secure lodgÂing and a small income.
Not that the proÂmoÂtion repÂreÂsentÂed a finanÂcial windÂfall for FlemÂing and the more than 80 female comÂputÂers who joined her over the next four decades. They earned between 25 to 50 cents an hour, half of what a man in the same posiÂtion would have been paid.
Image via WikiÂmeÂdia ComÂmons
At one point FlemÂing, who as a sinÂgle mothÂer was quite aware that she was burÂdened with “all houseÂkeepÂing cares …in addiÂtion to those of proÂvidÂing the means to meet their expensÂes,” addressed the matÂter of her low wages with PickÂerÂing, leavÂing her to vent in her diary:
I am immeÂdiÂateÂly told that I receive an excelÂlent salary as women’s salaries stand.… Does he ever think that I have a home to keep and a famÂiÂly to take care of as well as the men?… And this is conÂsidÂered an enlightÂened age!
HarÂvard cerÂtainÂly got its money’s worth from its female workÂforce when you conÂsidÂer that the clasÂsiÂfiÂcaÂtion sysÂtems they develÂoped led to idenÂtiÂfiÂcaÂtion of nearÂly 400,000 stars.
FlemÂing, who became responÂsiÂble for hirÂing her coworkÂers, was the first to disÂcovÂer white dwarfs and the HorseÂhead NebÂuÂla in OriÂon, in addiÂtion to 51 othÂer nebÂuÂlae, 10 novae, and 310 variÂable stars.
An impresÂsive achieveÂment, but anothÂer diary entry belies any glamÂour we might be temptÂed to assign:
From day to day my duties at the ObserÂvaÂtoÂry are so nearÂly alike that there will be litÂtle to describe outÂside ordiÂnary rouÂtine work of meaÂsureÂment, examÂiÂnaÂtion of phoÂtographs, and of work involved in the reducÂtion of these obserÂvaÂtions.
PickÂerÂing believed that the female comÂputÂers should attend conÂferÂences and present papers, but for the most part, they were kept so busy anaÂlyzÂing phoÂtoÂgraphÂic plates, they had litÂtle time left over to explore their own areas of interÂest, someÂthing that might have affordÂed them work of a more theÂoÂretÂiÂcal nature.
AnothÂer diary entry finds FlemÂing yearnÂing to get out from under a mounÂtain of busy work:
LookÂing after the numerÂous pieces of rouÂtine work which have to be kept proÂgressÂing, searchÂing for conÂfirÂmaÂtion of objects disÂcovÂered elseÂwhere, attendÂing to sciÂenÂtifÂic corÂreÂsponÂdence, getÂting mateÂrÂiÂal in form for pubÂliÂcaÂtion, etc, has conÂsumed so much of my time durÂing the past four years that litÂtle is left for the parÂticÂuÂlar invesÂtiÂgaÂtions in which I am espeÂcialÂly interÂestÂed.
And yet the work of FlemÂing and othÂer notable comÂputÂers such as HenÂriÂetÂta Swan LeavÂitt and Annie Jump CanÂnon is still helpÂing sciÂenÂtists make sense of the heavÂens, so much so that HarÂvard is seekÂing volÂunÂteers for Project PHaEÂDRA, to help tranÂscribe their logÂbooks and noteÂbooks to make them full-text searchÂable on the NASA AstroÂphysics Data SysÂtem. Learn how you can get involved here.
We may all have the best of intenÂtions when we colÂlect and share readÂing lists. We buy the books, stack them neatÂly by the chair or bed, then someÂthing hapÂpens. Like… litÂerÂalÂly, every day, someÂthing hapÂpens…. Let’s cut ourÂselves some slack. We’ll get to those books, or give them away to peoÂple who will read them, which is also a good thing to do.
But even if we can’t keep up, readÂing lists are still essenÂtial eduÂcaÂtionÂal tools, espeÂcialÂly for kids, young adults, and their parÂents and teachÂers. As we celÂeÂbrate the cenÂteÂnary of the 19th AmendÂment (which fell on August 18th) and talk about its many shortÂcomÂings, it may be more imporÂtant than ever to underÂstand the U.S. hisÂtoÂry that brought us to the curÂrent moment.
This is a hisÂtoÂry in which—whether rights were guarÂanÂteed by the conÂstiÂtuÂtion or not—peoÂple hisÂtorÂiÂcalÂly denied sufÂfrage have always had to strugÂgle. Each genÂerÂaÂtion of women, but most espeÂcialÂly Black, LatÂinx, IndigeÂnous, and LGBTQ women, must claim or reclaim basic rights, libÂerÂties, and proÂtecÂtions. More than ever, femÂiÂnist readÂing lists reflect the vast difÂferÂences in colÂlecÂtive and perÂsonÂal expeÂriÂence that fall under the label “FemÂiÂnist.”
To illusÂtrate the conÂtinÂued critÂiÂcal imporÂtance of femÂiÂnist hisÂtoÂry, theÂoÂry, and litÂerÂaÂture, the New York PubÂlic Library pubÂlished readÂing lists for adults, kids, and teens on the 19th Amendment’s 100th anniverÂsary. These books can help creÂate comÂmuÂniÂty and solÂiÂdarÂiÂty and inspire deep reflecÂtion as kids are pushed back into schools and parÂents and teachÂers try to help them cope.
The adult list conÂtains 126 books and includes links to the library catÂaÂlog or e‑Book ediÂtions. “The titles bridge the past and present of femÂiÂnist moveÂments, from Simone de Beauvoir’s The IndeÂpenÂdent Woman(1949) to RoxÂane Gay’s Bad FemÂiÂnist: Essays (2014), and from the earÂliÂest manÂiÂfestos for equalÂiÂty to conÂtemÂpoÂrary writÂings on interÂsecÂtionÂalÂiÂty,” ValentiÂna Di LisÂcia writes at HyperÂalÂlerÂgic.
The lists for kids and teens are of a more manÂageÂable length, and “if you’re lookÂing to stock the bookÂshelves before hisÂtoÂry class starts this fall,” you can hardÂly do betÂter than to start with these titles (or just bookÂmark the lists for now), as Danielle Valente—who helpÂfulÂly tranÂscribes both lists, below—notes at Time Out New York.
ColÂoÂnize This!: Young Women of ColÂor on Today’s FemÂiÂnism by Daisy HernánÂdez and Bushra Rehman (eds.)
Dear Ijeawele, or a FemÂiÂnist ManÂiÂfesto In FifÂteen SugÂgesÂtions by ChiÂmaÂmanÂda Ngozi Adichie
FemÂiÂnism Is… by AlexanÂdra Black, LauÂra Buller, EmiÂly Hoyle and Dr. Megan Todd
FemÂiÂnism: ReinÂventÂing the F‑Word by Nadia Abushanab HigÂgins
Fierce Femmes and NotoÂriÂous Liars: A DanÂgerÂous Trans Girl’s ConÂfabÂuÂlous MemÂoir by Kai Cheng Thom
Fight Like a Girl: 50 FemÂiÂnists Who Changed the World by LauÂra BarÂcelÂla
Full Frontal FemÂiÂnism: A Young WomÂan’s Guide to Why FemÂiÂnism MatÂters by JesÂsiÂca ValenÂti
Girl RisÂing: ChangÂing the World One Girl at a Time by Tanya Lee Stone
Girls Resist!: A Guide to Activism, LeadÂerÂship, and StartÂing a RevÂoÂluÂtion by KaeÂLyn Rich
Girls Write Now: Two Decades of True StoÂries from Young Female VoicÂes
Here We Are: FemÂiÂnism for the Real World by KelÂly Jensen (ed.)
I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings by Maya Angelou
I, RigobÂerÂta MenchĂş: An IndiÂan Woman In Guatemala by RigobÂerÂta MenchĂş
LightÂing the Fires of FreeÂdom: African AmerÂiÂcan Women in the CivÂil Rights MoveÂment by Janet Dewart Bell
ModÂern HerÂstoÂry: StoÂries of Women and NonÂbiÂnaÂry PeoÂple RewritÂing HisÂtoÂry by Blair Imani
MusÂlim Girl: A ComÂing of Age by Amani Al-KhatahtÂbeh
Not for OurÂselves Alone: The StoÂry of ElizÂaÂbeth Cady StanÂton and Susan B. AnthoÂny by GeofÂfrey C. Ward and Ken Burns
#NotYÂourÂPrincess: VoicÂes of Native AmerÂiÂcan Women by Lisa CharleyÂboy and Mary Beth Leatherdale (eds.)
RethinkÂing NorÂmal: A MemÂoir in TranÂsiÂtion by Katie Rain Hill
She Came to Slay: The Life and Times of HarÂriÂet TubÂman by EriÂca ArmÂstrong DunÂbar
SisÂsy: A ComÂing-of-GenÂder StoÂry by Jacob Tobia
Tomboy: A GraphÂic MemÂoir by Liz Prince
Trans Teen SurÂvival Guide by Owl and Fox FishÂer
Trans+: Love, Sex, Romance, and Being You by Kathryn GonÂzaÂles and Karen Rayne
Votes for Women!: AmerÂiÂcan SufÂfragÂists and the BatÂtle for the BalÂlot by Winifred ConÂkling
With Courage and Cloth: WinÂning the Fight for a WomÂan’s Right to Vote by Ann Bausum
You Don’t Have to Like Me: Essays on GrowÂing Up, SpeakÂing Out, and FindÂing FemÂiÂnism by AliÂda Nugent
AmaÂzons, AboÂliÂtionÂists, and Activists: A GraphÂic HisÂtoÂry of WomÂen’s Fight for Their Rights by MikÂki Kendall
This is, indeed, an excelÂlent place to start. GivÂen younger genÂerÂaÂtions’ levÂels of engageÂment with curÂrent events, it’s likeÂly your kids or stuÂdents are already familÂiar with many of the newÂer books on the lists.
If there’s any overÂarÂchÂing theme to be found among such a vast and ever-expandÂing canon of femÂiÂnist litÂerÂaÂture, it might be summed up best in the title of a recent Angela Davis book on femÂiÂnist moveÂments around the world: “FreeÂdom is a conÂstant strugÂgle.”
RememÂber earÂly April, when we threw ourÂselves into the GetÂty ChalÂlenge, turnÂing ourÂselves into hisÂtoric art recreÂations in lieu of climbÂing the walls?
Seems like ages ago, doesn’t it, that you wrapped a showÂer curÂtain around your head and rifled through the butÂton box, rabid to make yourÂself into a masÂterÂpiece.
While it’s not accuÂrate to say we’ve colÂlecÂtiveÂly setÂtled into a new norÂmal, many of us have acceptÂed that cerÂtain alterÂations to our everyÂday lives will be proÂlonged if our everyÂday lives are to proÂceed.
First it was depressÂing.
Now it’s just borÂing (with the occaÂsionÂal thrum of anxÂiÂety).
PerÂhaps it’s time to shake things up a bit, and Crows Eye ProÂducÂtions’ tutoÂrÂiÂal on achievÂing an Ancient Roman look using modÂern hair and beauÂty prodÂucts, above, is an excelÂlent place to start.
While Crows Eye speÂcialÂizes in buildÂing hisÂtorÂiÂcalÂly accuÂrate periÂod dress from the unmenÂtionÂable out, it’s worth notÂing that stylÂist Liv Free takes a few libÂerÂties, adding a bit of masÂcara and lipÂstick despite a dearth of eviÂdence that Roman women enhanced their lips or lashÂes.
She also uses curlÂing irons, ponyÂtail holdÂers, and a hair donut to creÂate a crown of ringlets and braids.
If you’re a stickÂler for authenÂticÂiÂty who won’t be able to live with yourÂself if you’re not sewn into your hair style with a bone neeÂdle, you may be betÂter off conÂsultÂing the YouTube chanÂnel of hair archeÂolÂoÂgist Janet Stephens.
But, if your goal is mereÂly to wow your co-workÂers with a full-on FlaÂvian Dynasty look durÂing your next Zoom call, by all means grab some pale lead-free founÂdaÂtion, some expendÂable Hot Buns, and some light blush.
Don’t worÂry that you’ll appear too done up. Free notes that Roman women of both high and low birth were devotÂed to makeÂup, but in defÂerÂence to their men, limÂitÂed themÂselves to the natÂurÂal look.
That’s a tad anachroÂnisÂtic, huh?
These days, anyÂone who wants to remake themÂselves in the image of Empress DomiÂtia LongÂiÂna should feel free to take a crack at it, irreÂspecÂtive of genÂder, race, or extra hands to help with the parts of the hairÂstyle you can can’t see in the mirÂror (or a Zoom winÂdow).
Once we have masÂtered our new look, we can see about anothÂer museÂum chalÂlenge. Here’s some inspiÂraÂtion to get us startÂed.
We nevÂer ever got as famous as the BeaÂtÂles. But we startÂed as friends, and we endÂed as friends. —Sylvia SaunÂders, The LivÂerÂbirds’ drumÂmer
John Lennon (a memÂber of a band who in a parÂalÂlel uniÂverse might’ve been billed as the male LivÂerÂbirds) announced that the all-female quarÂtet would fail, a deeply inacÂcuÂrate preÂdicÂtion.
The band got a lot of attenÂtion, toured with The Kinks and The Rolling Stones, disÂmissed BriÂan Epstein when he pooh-poohed their desire to play in HamÂburg, rejectÂed an offer to play topÂless in Las Vegas, and were sought out by Jimi HenÂdrix, owing to their bassist’s joint-rolling skills.
They also learned how to play the instruÂments they had optiÂmistiÂcalÂly purÂchased after seeÂing The BeaÂtÂles in Liverpool’s famed CavÂern Club.
Respect to any grandÂmothÂer with bragÂging rights to havÂing seen The BeaÂtÂles live, but it’s heartÂenÂing that these 16-year-old girls immeÂdiÂateÂly picÂtured themÂselves not so much as fans, but as playÂers.
“Oh my god!” I said to my cousins, “We’re going to be like them. And we’re going to be the first girls to do it.”
MisÂsion accomÂplished, in trousers and neatÂly tucked-in shirts, butÂtoned all the way to their colÂlars.
It’s not terÂriÂbly hard to guess what put an end to their six-year-run.
MothÂerÂly, wifeÂly duties…
Sylvia SaunÂders, who became drumÂmer by default because sticks were a betÂter fit with her small hands than frets, got pregÂnant, and recused herÂself due to comÂpliÂcaÂtions with that pregÂnanÂcy.
Valerie Gell, the LivÂerÂbirds’ late guiÂtarist and most accomÂplished musiÂcian, marÂried a handÂsome fan who’d been en route to HamÂburg to proÂpose when he was parÂaÂlyzed in a car acciÂdent, devotÂing herÂself to his care for 26 years.
The othÂer two memÂbers carÂried on for a bit, playÂing a JapanÂese tour with a couÂple of female musiÂcians they’d met in HamÂburg, but the chemÂistry couldn’t comÂpare.
The dream was over, but forÂtuÂnateÂly rock and roll starÂdom was not their only dream.
Unlike the fourth LivÂerÂbird, Pam Birch, who descendÂed into addicÂtion after the band broke up, neiÂther SaunÂders nor McGloÂry seems angry or regretÂful over what could have been, smilÂing as they menÂtion their long, hapÂpy marÂriages, chilÂdren, and grandÂchilÂdren.
They were awfulÂly tickÂled by Girls Don’t Play GuiÂtars, a recent West End musiÂcal that tells the stoÂry of the LivÂerÂbirds.
And McGloÂry is admirably sanÂguine about Lennon’s famous diss, revealÂing to the LivÂerÂpool Echo that:
He had a smile on his face when he said it—he wasn’t being maliÂcious. But it would have been nice to have bumped into him a few years latÂer and for him to say, “Well done, you proved me wrong,” which I’m sure he would have been hapÂpy to do.
Ayun HalÂlÂiÂday is an author, illusÂtraÂtor, theÂater makÂer and Chief PriÂmaÂtolÂoÂgist of the East VilÂlage Inky zine. Join Ayun’s comÂpaÂny TheÂater of the Apes in New York City for her book-based variÂety series, NecroÂmancers of the PubÂlic Domain, and the world preÂmiere of Greg Kotis’ new musiÂcal, I AM NOBODY., playÂing at The Tank NYC through March 28 FolÂlow her @AyunHalliday.
Negro Dive RaidÂed. ThirÂteen Black Men Dressed as Women SurÂprised at SupÂper and ArrestÂed. —The WashÂingÂton Post, April 13, 1888
SomeÂtimes, when we are engaged as either parÂticÂiÂpant in, or eyeÂwitÂness to, the makÂing of hisÂtoÂry, its easy to forÂget the hisÂtoÂry-makÂers who came earÂliÂer, who dug the trenchÂes that allow our modÂern batÂtles to be waged out in the open.
Take America’s first self-appointÂed “queen of drag” and pioÂneerÂing LGBTQ activist, William Dorsey Swann, born into slavÂery around 1858.
30 years latÂer, Swann faced down white offiÂcers bustÂing a drag ball in a “quiÂet-lookÂing house” on WashÂingÂton, DC’s F street, near 12th.
A lurid WashÂingÂton Post clipÂping about the raid caught the eye of writer, hisÂtoÂriÂan, and forÂmer OberÂlin ColÂlege Drag Ball queen, ChanÂning GerÂard Joseph, who was researchÂing an assignÂment for a ColumÂbia UniÂverÂsiÂty gradÂuÂate levÂel invesÂtigaÂtive reportÂing class:
An aniÂmatÂed conÂverÂsaÂtion, carÂried on in effemÂiÂnate tones, was in progress as the offiÂcers approached the door, but when they opened it and the form of Lieut. Amiss was visÂiÂble to the peoÂple in the room a panÂic ensued. A scramÂble was made for the winÂdows and doors and some of the peoÂple jumped to the roofs of adjoinÂing buildÂings. OthÂers stripped off their dressÂes and danced about the room almost in a nude conÂdiÂtion, while sevÂerÂal, headÂed by a big negro named Dorsey, who was arrayed in a gorÂgeous dress of cream-colÂored satin, rushed towards the offiÂcers and tried to preÂvent their enterÂing.
MeanÂwhile you can bone up on Swann, Swann’s jail time for runÂning a brothÂel, and the WashÂingÂton DC drag scene of the Swann era in Joseph’s essay for The Nation, “The First Drag Queen Was a ForÂmer Slave.”
Please note that William Dorsey Swann does not appear in the phoÂto at the top of the page. As per Joseph:
The dancers — one in striped pants, the othÂer in a dress — were recordÂed in France by Louis Lumière. Though their names are lost, they are believed to be AmerÂiÂcan. In the show, they perÂformed a verÂsion of the cakeÂwalk, a dance inventÂed by enslaved peoÂple, and the preÂcurÂsor to vogueÂing.
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