
The comÂing of the railÂroad in the U.S. of the 19th cenÂtuÂry meant unpreceÂdentÂed opporÂtuÂniÂty for millions—a triÂumph of transÂportaÂtion and comÂmerce that changed the counÂtry forÂevÂer. For many more—including milÂlions of AmerÂiÂcan bison—it meant catÂaÂstroÂphe and near extincÂtion. This comÂpliÂcatÂed hisÂtoÂry has proÂvidÂed a rich field of study for scholÂars of the period—who can tie the railÂroad to nearÂly every major hisÂtorÂiÂcal develÂopÂment, from the CivÂil War to presÂiÂdenÂtial camÂpaigns to the spread of the Sears merÂchanÂdisÂing empire from coast to coast.

But as time wore on, pasÂsenÂger trains became both more comÂmonÂplace and more luxÂuÂriÂous, as they comÂpetÂed with air and auto travÂel in the earÂly 20th cenÂtuÂry. It is this periÂod of railÂroad hisÂtoÂry that most attractÂed Ira SilÂverÂman as a gradÂuÂate stuÂdent at NorthÂwestÂern UniÂverÂsiÂty in the 1960s. While enrolled at Northwestern’s TransÂportaÂtion CenÂter in Evanston, IlliÂnois, SilÂverÂman and his classÂmates found endÂless “opporÂtuÂniÂties for research, advenÂture, and unparÂalÂleled feastÂing,” writes Claire Voon at Atlas ObscuÂra.
SilÂverÂman espeÂcialÂly took to the dinÂing cars—and more to the point, to the menus, which he colÂlectÂed by the dozens, “evenÂtuÂalÂly amassÂing an archive of 238 menus and relatÂed pamÂphlets. After a long career in tranÂsit, he donatÂed the colÂlecÂtion to his alma mater’s TransÂportaÂtion Library, which recentÂly digÂiÂtized it in its entireÂty.” Silverman’s colÂlecÂtion repÂreÂsents “35 UnitÂed States and CanaÂdiÂan railÂroads,” points out NorthÂwestÂern, and its conÂtents mostÂly date from the earÂly 60s to the 1980s—from his most active years ridÂing the rails in style, that is.

But SilÂverÂman was also able to acquire earÂliÂer examÂples, such as a 1939 menu “once perused by pasÂsenÂgers aboard the famed 20th CenÂtuÂry LimÂitÂed train,” Voon writes, “which travÂeled between New York City and ChicaÂgo.” TwenÂty years after this menu’s appearÂance, Cary Grant, “playÂing an adman in Alfred Hitchcock’s North by NorthÂwest, orders a brook trout with his GibÂson” while ridÂing the same line. The Art Deco menu for the “new streamÂlined” line feaÂtures such delÂiÂcaÂcies as “genÂuine RussÂian caviar on toast and grilled French sarÂdines.”

Even kids’ menus—now reliÂably domÂiÂnatÂed by chickÂen finÂgers, pizÂza, PB&Js, and mac & cheese—offered far more sophisÂtiÂcatÂed dinÂing than we might expect to find, with “items such as grilled lamb chops, roast beef, and seaÂsonÂal fish” on the North Coast LimÂitÂed menu below. “The mid-20th cenÂtuÂry seems to have been a goldÂen age of railÂroad dinÂing,” remarks NorthÂwestÂern TransÂportaÂtion LibrarÂiÂan Rachel Cole. “It was nevÂer someÂthing that railÂroads profÂitÂed on, but they used it to comÂpete against each othÂer and attract pasÂsenÂgers,” takÂing pride in “selecÂtions that would be rivaled in restauÂrants.”

The fine dinÂing-car expeÂriÂence might also include novÂelÂty items pasÂsenÂgers would be unlikeÂly to find anyÂwhere else, such as NorthÂwestÂern Pacific’s Great Baked PotaÂto, “a monÂstrous spud,” Voon explains, “that could weigh anyÂwhere between two to five pounds” and came served with “an approÂpriÂateÂly sized butÂter pat.” One can see the appeal for a food and travÂel enthuÂsiÂast like SilÂverÂman, who had the privÂiÂlege of tryÂing dishÂes on most of these menus for himÂself.

The rest of us will have to rely on our gusÂtaÂtoÂry imagÂiÂnaÂtions to conÂjure what it might have been like to eat prime rib on the WestÂern Star in the PacifÂic NorthÂwest in the earÂly 60s, or braised smoked pork loin on an Amtrak train in 1972. If your memÂoÂries of dinÂing on a train mostÂly conÂsist of pulling sogÂgy, microwaved “food” from steamÂing hot plasÂtic bags, or munchÂing on packÂaged, processed salty snacks, expand your sense of what railÂroad dinÂing could be at the Ira SilÂverÂman RailÂroad Menu ColÂlecÂtion here.

RelatÂed ConÂtent:
What PrisÂonÂers Ate at AlcaÂtraz in 1946: A VinÂtage Prison Menu
Josh Jones is a writer and musiÂcian based in Durham, NC. FolÂlow him at @jdmagness



