
The 17th and 18th cenÂturies in EngÂland marked a periÂod of ostenÂtaÂtion for a growÂing, and increasÂingÂly wealthy, landownÂing class. These were also times of interÂnal reliÂgious wars between Catholics and ProtesÂtants, a periÂod that saw the regiÂcide of Charles I, the restoraÂtion of Charles II to the throne, and William and Mary’s “GloÂriÂous RevÂoÂluÂtion,” deposÂing his sucÂcesÂsor, James II. All of this over the span of 28 years. Anti-Catholic senÂtiÂment ran high among the peoÂple, and it made a parÂticÂuÂlarÂly conÂveÂnient politÂiÂcal tool.
But there are two groups you might not have found at anti-Catholic ralÂlies durÂing the most heatÂed of politÂiÂcal times, not, at least, durÂing the final, forÂmaÂtive years of their eduÂcaÂtion. Both young scions of genÂtry and nobilÂiÂty on a gap year, and artists and poets seekÂing out the finest trainÂing, took the EuroÂpean Grand Tour, for sevÂerÂal months or sevÂerÂal years, a sojourn through the mostÂly-Catholic conÂtiÂnent. No clasÂsiÂcal eduÂcaÂtion was comÂplete withÂout a visÂit to FloÂrence, Milan, Rome, VienÂna, and, of course, Paris.

Here, genÂtleÂman picked up the latÂest fashÂions and dance steps, budÂding archiÂtects studÂied catheÂdrals and Catholic art, and everyÂone, Catholic and ProtesÂtant alike, gawked at the towÂerÂing Notre Dame. The imporÂtance of the Grand Tour, remarked hisÂtoÂriÂan E.P. ThompÂson, “showed that rulÂing class conÂtrol in the 18th cenÂtuÂry was locatÂed priÂmarÂiÂly in culÂturÂal hegeÂmoÂny.” TourÂing genÂtleÂmen wrote memÂoirs and guideÂbooks and comÂmisÂsioned paintÂings. Artists sent back drawÂings and poems, as both souÂvenirs and proof of their culÂturÂal masÂtery.

Through these arisÂtoÂcratÂic tourists the rest of the world came to see Europe as a sucÂcesÂsion of monÂuÂments, like the Greek and Roman cities of antiqÂuiÂty. At the same time, an impeÂriÂalÂist craze for NeoÂclasÂsiÂcal archiÂtecÂture began to make Europe’s biggest cities resemÂble clasÂsiÂcal modÂels more and more.
The last half of the 18th cenÂtuÂry saw the conÂstrucÂtion of the PanÂthĂ©on, La MadeÂline—the Catholic church first dedÂiÂcatÂed as a temÂple to Napoleon—and the LouÂvre, all monÂuÂments to clasÂsiÂcal archiÂtecÂture.

The Grand Tour approach to lookÂing at cities and the corÂreÂspondÂing NeoÂclasÂsiÂcal wave of buildÂing came togethÂer in the age of phoÂtogÂraÂphy, when prints of the great places could give their viewÂers a sense of havÂing been there, or at least hit all the major entries in the guideÂbook. WanÂderÂing genÂtry and artists became entreÂpreÂneurs, using the new techÂnolÂoÂgy to not only simÂuÂlate a Grand Tour, but to sell prints for postÂcards and the rare phoÂtoÂgraphÂic book.

By 1890, when the phoÂtos of Paris here were takÂen, such prints were comÂmonÂplace. They repÂreÂsentÂed a democÂraÂtiÂzaÂtion, in a way, of Europe’s great landÂmarks, and of the litÂerÂary and fine arts techÂniques once priÂmarÂiÂly used to record them. No doubt some few peoÂple saw the develÂopÂment as a vulÂgar one, but art hisÂtoÂriÂans today can be grateÂful that Paris at the end of the 19th cenÂtuÂry was so well-docÂuÂmentÂed. In this digÂiÂtal colÂlecÂtion from the Library of ConÂgress, Beaux-Arts masÂterÂpieces like the Paris Opera House sit beside the GothÂic Notre Dame and Neo-ClasÂsiÂcal PanÂthĂ©on.

It is a shame these phoÂtos do not let viewÂers go inside to expeÂriÂence firstÂhand the buildÂings that inspired The PhanÂtom of the Opera and The HunchÂback of Notre Dame, and in which are buried such litÂerÂary royÂalÂty as Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Emile Zola, and VicÂtor Hugo himÂself. But this rich archive of earÂly colÂor phoÂtographs from just before the turn of the cenÂtuÂry does capture—for all time, perÂhaps, now that they are online—the greatÂest feats of archiÂtecÂturÂal engiÂneerÂing from the old Medieval order, the Ancien RĂ©gime, the RepubÂlic, and the Empire.

The colÂlecÂtion repÂreÂsents yet anothÂer way of digÂiÂtalÂly preÂservÂing the memÂoÂries of these grand buildÂings should they one day be lost, as Notre Dame nearÂly was just a few days ago. It also shows the state of phoÂtogÂraÂphy at the dawn of the postÂcard boom, when PhoÂtochrom prints like these could be purÂchased cheapÂly and mailed for a few cents or cenÂtimes. See many more of these stunÂning phoÂtos at the Library of ConÂgress DigÂiÂtal ColÂlecÂtions here.

RelatÂed ConÂtent:
Tsarist RusÂsia Comes to Life in Vivid ColÂor PhoÂtographs TakÂen CirÂca 1905–1915
Josh Jones is a writer and musiÂcian based in Durham, NC. FolÂlow him at @jdmagness




















