Long before it was a nationÂalÂist ralÂlyÂing cry in Japan durÂing WWII, the term YamÂaÂto-damashii referred to someÂthing less like racial impeÂriÂalÂism and more like chivalÂry — the “JapanÂese SpirÂit” or “Old Soul of Japan,” as Greek-JapanÂese writer LafÂcaÂdio Hearn wrote. PerÂhaps surÂprisÂingÂly, the “JapanÂese SpirÂit” was not based in the marÂtial arts of the samuÂrai at first, but in the scholÂarÂship of ChiÂna, as the ancient novÂel The Tale of GenÂji explains when definÂing YamÂaÂto-damashii as “a good, solÂid fund of knowlÂedge… a fund of ChiÂnese learnÂing.” This would change when the code of BushidĹŤ evolved, and the samuÂrai, with his elabÂoÂrate armor and eleÂgant swords, became a cenÂtral figÂure of honÂor in JapanÂese sociÂety.
In The JapanÂese Sword as the Soul of theSamuÂrai, the nearÂly half-hour docÂuÂmenÂtary above by travÂelÂing AmerÂiÂcan docÂuÂmenÂtary filmÂmakÂer Ken WolfÂgang, George Takei narÂrates the tale of the samuÂrai’s sword. The film begins with the legÂendary charÂacÂter YamÂaÂto Takeru (who one scholÂar specÂuÂlates may share a comÂmon oriÂgin with King Arthur). This ur-samuÂrai inherÂitÂed the first sword from the tail of a eight-headÂed dragÂon that was slain by a god.
The sword, nickÂnamed “grass-mowÂer,” Takei tells us, is enshrined near Nagoya, “the secÂond of the three sacred symÂbols of ShinÂto, the nationÂal reliÂgion of Japan.” When we turn from myth to hisÂtoÂry, Takei says, we find that the “earÂliÂest known swords are found in the… tombs of the ancient YamÂaÂto peoÂple, who are believed to have inhabÂitÂed Japan between the 2nd and 8th cenÂturies AD,” and who are the oriÂgin of YamÂaÂto-damashii.
“As Japan develÂoped, so did the sword,” becomÂing ever more refined in the counÂtry’s MidÂdle Ages, where the weapon reached its “peak of perÂfecÂtion.… Its qualÂiÂty has nevÂer been surÂpassed to this day.” The sword became a soul — and we, as viewÂers, are treatÂed to an insidÂer’s view of the methÂods of its forgÂing. The smithing of swords is no mere craft; it is a “reliÂgious ritÂuÂal” that begins with prayers and offerÂings — ferÂvent impreÂcaÂtions to the gods that the new sword may approach the perÂfecÂtion of a “grass-mowÂer.” The forge is lit from the alter’s fire, and it can take months, or even years, to make just one sword. Don’t miss the rare opporÂtuÂniÂty to see the process in just over twenÂty minÂutes in this short docÂuÂmenÂtary film.
After two cenÂturies of isoÂlaÂtion, Japan re-opened to the world in the 1860s, at which point WestÂernÂers immeÂdiÂateÂly became enamÂored with things JapanÂese. It was in that very same decade that VinÂcent Van Gogh began colÂlectÂing ukiyo‑e woodÂblock prints, which inspired him to creÂate “the art of the future.” But not every WestÂernÂer was drawn first to such eleÂvatÂed fruits of JapanÂese culÂture. When the American educator William ÂElliot GriffÂis went to Japan in 1876 he marÂveled at a counÂtry that seemed to be a parÂadise of play: “We do not know of any counÂtry in the world in which there are so many toy-shops, or so many fairs for the sale of things which delight chilÂdren,” he wrote.
That quote comes from Matt Alt’s Pure InvenÂtion: How Japan’s Pop CulÂture ConÂquered the World. “While WestÂern tastemakÂers voraÂciousÂly conÂsumed prints, glassÂware, texÂtiles, and othÂer grown-up delights, it was in fact toys that formed the backÂbone of Japan’s burÂgeonÂing export indusÂtry in the late nineÂteenth cenÂtuÂry,” Alt writes.
You can expeÂriÂence some of the pleaÂsures of that periÂod’s JapanÂese visuÂal art along with some of the pleaÂsures of that periÂod’s JapanÂese toy culÂture in the Ningyo-do Bunko dataÂbase. This digÂiÂtal archive’s more than 100 albums of waterÂcolÂor toy-design renÂderÂings from the late nineÂteenth and earÂly twenÂtiÂeth cenÂturies are, in the words of BibÂliOdyssey’s Paul KerÂriÂgÂan, “by turns scary and intriguÂing.”
These masks, dolls, tops, and othÂer fanÂciÂful works of the toyÂmakÂer’s craft may not immeÂdiÂateÂly appeal to a genÂerÂaÂtion raised with smartÂphones. But their designs, rootÂed in JapanÂese mytholÂoÂgy and regionÂal culÂtures, nevÂerÂtheÂless exude both a still-uncomÂmon artistry and a still-fasÂciÂnatÂing “othÂerÂness.” If this seems like kid’s stuff, bear in mind the causÂes of Japan’s transÂforÂmaÂtion from a post-World War II shamÂbles to perÂhaps the most advanced counÂtry in the world. As Alt tells the stoÂry of this astonÂishÂing develÂopÂment, Japan went from makÂing simÂple tin jeeps to tranÂsisÂtor radios to karaoke machines to WalkÂmen to vast culÂturÂal indusÂtries of comics, film, teleÂviÂsion, and relatÂed merÂchanÂdise: all toys, broadÂly defined, and we in the rest of the world underÂesÂtiÂmate their powÂer at our perÂil. RumÂmage through the designs here.
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂterBooks on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
The Library of AlexanÂdria has been physÂiÂcalÂly gone for about eighÂteen cenÂturies now, but the instiÂtuÂtion endures as a powÂerÂful symÂbol. Today we have the interÂnet, which none can deny is at least well on its way to becomÂing a digÂiÂtal store of all human knowlÂedge. But despite havÂing emerged from an ever more enorÂmousÂly comÂplex techÂnoÂlogÂiÂcal infraÂstrucÂture, the interÂnet is difÂfiÂcult to capÂture in a legÂiÂble menÂtal picÂture. The Library of AlexanÂdria, by conÂtrast, actuÂalÂly stood in Egypt for some 300 years after its comÂmisÂsionÂing by PtoleÂmy I and II, and earÂly in the secÂond cenÂtuÂry B.C. it bid fair to hold pracÂtiÂcalÂly all writÂten knowlÂedge in exisÂtence withÂin its walls (and those of its “daughÂter library” the SerÂapeum, conÂstructÂed when the main buildÂing ran out of space).
InterÂestÂing enough as a lost work of ancient archiÂtecÂture, the Library of AlexanÂdria is rememÂbered for its conÂtents — not that hisÂtoÂry has been able to rememÂber in much detail what those conÂtents actuÂalÂly were. “Some ancient authors claimed that it conÂtained 700,000 books,” says ancient-hisÂtoÂry scholÂar GarÂret Ryan in the video above.
“Books, in this conÂtext, meanÂing papyrus scrolls,” and their actuÂal numÂber was almost cerÂtainÂly smallÂer. By the time the Library itself — or at least part of it — was burned down by Julius CaeÂsar in 48 B.C., it had been falling into disÂuse for quite some time. “It is someÂtimes said that the destrucÂtion of the Library of AlexanÂdria set civÂiÂlizaÂtion back by cenÂturies,” Ryan tells us. “This is a wild exagÂgerÂaÂtion.”
The Library of AlexanÂdria might have been the most impresÂsive intelÂlecÂtuÂal reposÂiÂtoÂry in the ancient world, but it was hardÂly the only one. Most of the works in its colÂlecÂtion, Ryan explains, would also have been held by othÂer libraries, though they would also decline along with the genÂerÂal interÂest in clasÂsiÂcal culÂture. “Although there were cerÂtainÂly many works of mathÂeÂmatÂics and physics, the most imporÂtant of these were wideÂly disÂsemÂiÂnatÂed elseÂwhere. What perÂished with the Library were, overÂwhelmÂingÂly, lessÂer-known works of litÂerÂaÂture and phiÂlosÂoÂphy, comÂmenÂtaries and monoÂgraphs: all the residue and introÂspecÂtion of an extremeÂly sophisÂtiÂcatÂed litÂerÂary culÂture.” To scholÂars of ancient litÂerÂaÂture, of course, such a loss is incalÂcuÂlaÂble. And in our own culÂture today, we’ll still do well to hold up the Library of AlexanÂdria as an image of what it is to amass human knowlÂedge — as well as what it is to let that knowlÂedge decay.
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂterBooks on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
AniÂta Berber, the taboo-bustÂing, sexÂuÂalÂly omnivÂoÂrous, fashÂion forÂward, freÂquentÂly naked star of the Weimar RepubÂlic cabaret scene, tops our list of perÂformÂers we realÂly wish we’d been able to see live.
While Berber actÂed in 27 films, includÂing ProsÂtiÂtuÂtion, direcÂtor Fritz Lang’s Dr. Mabuse: The GamÂbler, and DifÂferÂent from the OthÂers, which film critÂic DenÂnis HarÂvey describes as “the first movie to porÂtray homoÂsexÂuÂal charÂacÂters beyond the usuÂal innuÂenÂdo and ridicule,” we have a strong hunch that none of these appearÂances can comÂpete with the sheer audacÂiÂty of her stage work.
AudiÂences at Berlin’s White Mouse cabaret (some wearÂing black or white masks to conÂceal their idenÂtiÂties) were titÂilÂlatÂed by her ExpresÂsionÂisÂtic nude solo choreÂogÂraÂphy, as well as the troupe of six teenaged dancers under her comÂmand.
Berber had been known to spit brandy on them or stand naked on their tables, dousÂing herÂself in wine whilst simulÂtaÂneÂousÂly uriÂnatÂing… It was not long before the entire cabaret one night sank into a groundswell of shoutÂing, screams and laughÂter. AniÂta jumped off the stage in fumÂing rage, grabbed the nearÂest chamÂpagne botÂtle and smashed it over a businessman’s head.
Her colÂlabÂoÂraÂtions with her secÂond husÂband, dancer SebasÂtÂian Droste, carÂried Berber into increasÂingÂly transÂgresÂsive terÂriÂtoÂry, both onstage and off.
AccordÂing to transÂlaÂtor MerÂrill Cole, in the introÂducÂtion to the 2012 reisÂsue of Dances of Vice, HorÂror and EcstaÂsy, a book of ExpresÂsionÂist poems, essays, phoÂtographs, and stage designs which Droste and Berber co-authored, “even the bioÂgraphÂiÂcal details seduce:”
…a bisexÂuÂal someÂtimes-prosÂtiÂtute and a shady figÂure from the male homoÂsexÂuÂal underÂworld, unitÂed in addicÂtion to cocaine and disÂdain for bourÂgeois respectabilÂiÂty, both highÂly talÂentÂed, ExpresÂsionÂist-trained dancers, both beauÂtiÂful exhiÂbiÂtionÂists, set out to proÂvide the BabyÂlon on the Spree with the ultiÂmate expeÂriÂence of depravÂiÂty, using an art form they had helped to invent for this purÂpose. Their brief marÂriage and artisÂtic interÂacÂtion endÂed when Droste became desÂperÂate for drugs and abscondÂed with Berber’s jewÂel colÂlecÂtion.
This, and the descripÂtion of Berber’s penÂchant for “haunt(ing) Weimar Berlin’s hotel lobÂbies, nightÂclubs and casiÂnos, radiÂantÂly naked except for an eleÂgant sable wrap, a pet monÂkey hangÂing from her neck, and a silÂver brooch packed with cocaine,” do a far more evocaÂtive job of resÂurÂrectÂing Berber, the Weimar senÂsaÂtion, than any wordy, blow-by-blow attempt to recreÂate her shockÂing perÂforÂmances, though we can’t fault author Karl Toepfer, ProÂfesÂsor EmerÂiÂtus of TheÂater Arts at San Jose State UniÂverÂsiÂty, for tryÂing.
In Empire of EcstaÂsy: NudiÂty and MoveÂment in GerÂman Body CulÂture, 1910–1935, Toepfer draws heavÂiÂly on Czech choreÂoÂgÂraÂphÂer Joe JenÄŤĂk’s eyeÂwitÂness obserÂvaÂtions, to reconÂstruct Berber’s most notoÂriÂous dance, Cocaine, beginÂning with the “omiÂnous scenery by HarÂry TäuÂber feaÂturÂing a tall lamp on a low, cloth-covÂered table:”
This lamp was an expresÂsionÂist sculpÂture with an ambiguÂous form that one could read as a sign of the phalÂlus, an abstracÂtion of the female dancer’s body, or a monÂuÂmenÂtal image of a syringe, for a long, shiny neeÂdle proÂtrudÂed from the top of it…It is not clear how nude Berber was when she perÂformed the dance. JenÄŤĂk, writÂing in 1929, flatÂly statÂed that she was nude, but the famous VienÂnese phoÂtogÂraÂphÂer Madame D’OÂra (Dora Kalmus) took a picÂture entiÂtled “Kokain” in which Berber appears in a long black dress that exposÂes her breasts and whose lacÂing, up the front, reveals her flesh to below her navel.
In any case, accordÂing to JenÄŤĂk, she disÂplayed “a simÂple techÂnique of natÂurÂal steps and unforced posÂes.” But though the techÂnique was simÂple, the dance itself, one of Berber’s most sucÂcessÂful creÂations, was apparÂentÂly quite comÂplex. RisÂing from an iniÂtial conÂdiÂtion of paralÂyÂsis on the floor (or posÂsiÂbly from the table, as indiÂcatÂed by TäuÂber’s scenoÂgraphÂic notes), she adoptÂed a priÂmal moveÂment involvÂing a slow, sculpÂtured turnÂing of her body, a kind of slow-motion effect. The turnÂing repÂreÂsentÂed the unravÂelÂing of a “knot of flesh.” But as the body uncoiled, it conÂvulsed into “sepÂaÂrate parts,” proÂducÂing a variÂety of rhythms withÂin itself. Berber used all parts of her body to conÂstruct a “tragÂic” conÂflict between the healthy body and the poiÂsoned body: she made disÂtinct rhythms out of the moveÂment of her musÂcles; she used “unexÂpectÂed counter-moveÂments” of her head to creÂate an anguished sense of balÂance; her “porceÂlain-colÂored arms” made hypÂnotÂic, penÂduÂlumÂlike moveÂments, like a marÂiÂonetÂte’s; withÂin the priÂmal turnÂing of her body, there appeared conÂtraÂdicÂtoÂry turns of her wrists, torÂso, ankles; the rhythm of her breathÂing flucÂtuÂatÂed with draÂmatÂic effect; her intense dark eyes folÂlowed yet anothÂer, slowÂer rhythm; and she introÂduced the “most refined nuances of agiliÂty” in makÂing spasms of senÂsaÂtion ripÂple through her finÂgers, nosÂtrils, and lips. Yet, despite all this comÂplexÂiÂty, she was not afraid of seemÂing “ridicuÂlous” or “painfulÂly swollen.” The dance conÂcludÂed when the conÂvulsed dancer attemptÂed to cry out (with the “blood-red openÂing of the mouth”) and could not. The dancer then hurled herÂself to the floor and assumed a pose of motionÂless, drugged sleep. Berber’s dance draÂmaÂtized the intense ambiÂguÂiÂty involved in linkÂing the ecstaÂtÂic libÂerÂaÂtion of the body to nudiÂty and rhythÂmic conÂsciousÂness. The dance tied ecstaÂtÂic expeÂriÂence to an encounter with vice (addicÂtion) and horÂror (acute awareÂness of death).
A noble attempt, but forÂgive us if we can’t quite picÂture it…
And what litÂtle eviÂdence has been preÂserved of her screen appearÂances exists at a simÂiÂlar remove from the dark subÂject matÂter she explicÂitÂly refÂerÂenced in her choreÂoÂgraphed work — MorÂphine, SuiÂcide, The Corpse on the DisÂsectÂing Table…
Cole opines:
There are a numÂber of narÂraÂtive accounts of her dances, some pinned by proÂfesÂsionÂal critÂics, and almost all comÂmendÂing her talÂent, finesse, and mesÂmerÂizÂing stage presÂence. We also have film images from the varÂiÂous silent films in which she played bit parts. There exist, too, many still phoÂtographs of Berber and Droste, as well as renÂdiÂtions of Berber by othÂer artists, most promiÂnentÂly the Dadaist Otto Dix’s famous scarÂlet-satÂuÂratÂed porÂtrait. In regard to the naked dances, unforÂtuÂnateÂly, we have no movÂing images, no way to watch directÂly how they were perÂformed.
For a dishy overview of AniÂta Berber’s perÂsonÂal life, includÂing her alleged dalÂliances with actress MarÂlene DietÂrich, author Lawrence DurÂrell, and the King of Yugoslavia, her influÂenÂtial effect on direcÂtor Leni RiefenÂstahl, and her sad demise at the age of 29, a “carÂrion soul that even the hyeÂnas ignored,” take a peek at VicÂtoÂria Linchong’s bioÂgraphÂiÂcal essay for Messy Nessy Chic, or betÂter yet, Iron Spike’s TwitÂter thread.
Berber was addictÂed to alcoÂhol, cocaine, opiÂum, and morÂphine. But one of her favorite drugs was chloÂroÂform and ether, mixed in a bowl. She would stir the bowl with the bloom of a white rose, and then eat the petals.
The video above shows us Jack KerÂouac givÂing a readÂing, accomÂpaÂnied by the jazz piano stylings of evening teleÂviÂsion variÂety-show host Steve Allen. In othÂer words, if you’ve been lookÂing for the most late-nineÂteen-fifties clip in exisÂtence, your jourÂney may have come to an end. EarÂliÂer in that decade, Allen says (sprinÂkling his monoÂlogue with a few notes here and there), “the nation recÂogÂnized in its midst a social moveÂment called the Beat GenÂerÂaÂtion. A novÂel titled On the Roadbecame a bestÂseller, and its author, Jack KerÂouac, became a celebriÂty: partÂly because he’d writÂten a powÂerÂful and sucÂcessÂful book, but partÂly because he seemed to be the embodÂiÂment of this new genÂerÂaÂtion.”
As the novÂelÂists and poets of the Beat GenÂerÂaÂtion were gradÂuÂalÂly gainÂing renown, Allen was fast becomÂing a nationÂal celebriÂty. In 1954, his co-creÂation The Tonight Show made him the first late-night teleÂviÂsion talk show host, and conÂseÂquentÂly applied presÂsure to stay atop the culÂturÂal curÂrents of the day. Not only did he know of the Beats, he joined them, at least for one colÂlabÂoÂraÂtion: “Jack and I made an album togethÂer a few months back in which I played backÂground piano for his poetÂry readÂing.” That was PoetÂry for the Beat GenÂerÂaÂtion, the first of KerÂouac’s trilÂoÂgy of spoÂken-word albums that we preÂviÂousÂly feaÂtured here on Open CulÂture back in 2015.
“At that time I made a note to book him on this show,” Allen says, “because I thought you would enjoy meetÂing him.” After answerÂing a few “square quesÂtions” by way of introÂducÂtion — it took him three weeks to write On the Road, he spent sevÂen years on the road itself, he did indeed type on a conÂtinÂuÂous “scroll’ of paper, and he would define “Beat” as “symÂpaÂthetÂic” — KerÂouac reads from the novÂel that made his name, accomÂpaÂnied by Allen’s piano. “A lot of peoÂple have asked me, why did I write that book, or any book,” he begins. “All the stoÂries I wrote were true, because I believed in what I saw.” This is, of course, not poetÂry but prose, and pracÂtiÂcalÂly essayÂisÂtic prose at that, but here it sounds like a litÂerÂary form all its own.
If you’d like to hear the music of KerÂouac’s prose withÂout actuÂal musiÂcal accomÂpaÂniÂment, have a lisÂten to his acetate recordÂing of a half-hour selecÂtion from On the Roadthat we postÂed last weekÂend. The occaÂsion was the 100th anniverÂsary of his birth, which elseÂwhere brought forth all manÂner of tribÂutes and re-evalÂuÂaÂtions of his work and legaÂcy. 65 years after On the Road’s pubÂliÂcaÂtion, how much resemÂblance does today’s AmerÂiÂca bear to the one crissÂcrossed by Sal ParÂadise and Dean MoriÂarÂty? It’s worth conÂsidÂerÂing why the counÂtry no longer inspires writÂers quite like Jack KerÂouac — or for that matÂter, givÂen the pasÂsage of his own litÂtle-notÂed cenÂteÂnary last DecemÂber, teleÂviÂsion hosts like Steve Allen.
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂterBooks on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
Last year, the fates handÂed the New York Times’ Maria Cramer an enviÂably strikÂing lede: “HumanÂiÂty is 100 secÂonds away from total anniÂhiÂlaÂtion. Again.” That we all know immeÂdiÂateÂly what she was writÂing about speaks to the powÂer of graphÂic design. SpecifÂiÂcalÂly, it speaks to the powÂer of graphÂic design as pracÂticed by Martyl LangsÂdorf, who hapÂpened to be marÂried to ex-ManÂhatÂtan Project physiÂcist AlexanÂder LangsÂdorf. This conÂnecÂtion got her the gig of creÂatÂing a covÂer for the June 1947 issue of the BulÂletin of the AtomÂic SciÂenÂtists. She came up with a simÂpleimage: the upper-left corÂner of a clock, its hands at sevÂen minÂutes to midÂnight.
Asked latÂer why she set the clock to that time in parÂticÂuÂlar, LangsÂdorf explained that “it looked good to my eye.” That quote appears in a post at the BulÂletin addressÂing freÂquentÂly asked quesÂtions about what’s now known as the DoomsÂday Clock, “a design that warns the pubÂlic about how close we are to destroyÂing our world with danÂgerÂous techÂnoloÂgies of our own makÂing. It is a metaphor, a reminder of the perÂils we must address if we are to surÂvive on the planÂet.” In the 75 years since its introÂducÂtion, its minute hand has been moved backÂward eight times and forÂward sixÂteen times; curÂrentÂly it still stands where Cramer reportÂed it as havÂing remained last JanÂuÂary, at 100 secÂonds to midÂnight.
To the pubÂlic of 1947, “midÂnight” sigÂniÂfied above all the prospect of humanÂiÂty’s self-destrucÂtion through the use of nuclear weapons. But as techÂnolÂoÂgy itself has advanced and proÂlifÂerÂatÂed, the means of auto-anniÂhiÂlaÂtion have grown more diverse. This year’s DoomsÂday Clock stateÂment cites not just nukes but carÂbon emisÂsions, infecÂtious disÂeases, and “interÂnet-enabled misÂinÂforÂmaÂtion and disÂinÂforÂmaÂtion.” EarÂliÂer this month, the BulÂletin remindÂed us that even as 2022 began, “we called out Ukraine as a potenÂtial flashÂpoint in an increasÂingÂly tense interÂnaÂtionÂal secuÂriÂty landÂscape. For many years, we and othÂers have warned that the most likeÂly way nuclear weapons might be used is through an unwantÂed or uninÂtendÂed escaÂlaÂtion from a conÂvenÂtionÂal conÂflict.”
Now that “Russia’s invaÂsion of Ukraine has brought this nightÂmare sceÂnario to life,” many have found themÂselves glancÂing nerÂvousÂly at the DoomsÂday Clock once again. This also hapÂpened after the elecÂtion of DonÂald Trump, which promptÂed the Vox video above on the ClockÂ’s hisÂtoÂry and purÂpose. Its iconÂic staÂtus, as celÂeÂbratÂed in the new book The DoomsÂday Clock at 75, has long outÂlastÂed the Cold War, but the device itself isn’t withÂout its critÂics. BulÂletin co-founder Eugene RabiÂnowÂitch once articÂuÂlatÂed the latÂter as meant “to preÂserve civÂiÂlizaÂtion by scarÂing men into ratioÂnalÂiÂty,” a someÂwhat conÂtroÂverÂsial intenÂtion. One could also raise objecÂtions to using an inherÂentÂly linÂear and uniÂdiÂrecÂtionÂal conÂcept like time to repÂreÂsent a probÂaÂbilÂiÂty resultÂing from human action. Yet someÂhow more techÂniÂcalÂly suitÂable images — “100 cenÂtimeÂters from the edge,” say — don’t have quite the same ring.
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂterBooks on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
Last week we feaÂtured the recent disÂcovÂery of Ernest ShackÂleÂton’s ship Endurance, which has spent more than a cenÂtuÂry at the botÂtom of the WedÂdell Sea off AntarcÂtiÂca. It sank there in 1915, after havÂing been entrapped and slowÂly crushed by pack ice for the most of a year. That marked the end of what had startÂed as the 1914–1917 ImpeÂrÂiÂal Trans-AntarcÂtic ExpeÂdiÂtion, but it cerÂtainÂly wasÂn’t the end of the stoÂry. When it had become clear that there was no hope for Endurance, writes Rain Noe at Core77, “ShackÂleÂton and five of the crew then sailed 800 miles in a lifeboat to StromÂness, an inhabÂitÂed island and whalÂing staÂtion in the South Atlantic, where they were able to orgaÂnize a resÂcue parÂty. ShackÂleÂton locatÂed and resÂcued his crew four months latÂer.”
Today we can watch the Endurance’s demise on film, as shot by expeÂdiÂtion phoÂtogÂraÂphÂer Frank HurÂley. “How is it posÂsiÂble that the film footage surÂvived this ordeal?” Noe writes. “After the crew abanÂdoned ship, food was the main thing to be carÂried away by the men, and HurÂley had to decide which phoÂto negÂaÂtives and film reels to salÂvage.” HurÂley himÂself latÂer described this agoÂnizÂing process, at the end of which “about 400 plates were jetÂtiÂsoned and 120 retained. LatÂer I had to preÂserve them almost with my life; for a time came when we had to choose between heavÂing them overÂboard or throwÂing away our surÂplus food — and the food went over!”
Even relÂaÂtiveÂly earÂly in the era of cinÂeÂma, HurÂley must have underÂstood the powÂer of the image — as, it seems, did his capÂtain. The footage HurÂley could salÂvage retained a strikÂing clarÂiÂty, and it went into 1919’s South, which is now conÂsidÂered to be the very first docÂuÂmenÂtary feaÂture. “South was first exhibÂitÂed by Ernest ShackÂleÂton in 1919 to accomÂpaÂny his lecÂtures,” writes Ann OgiÂdi at the BFI’s ScreenonÂline, “and it has some of the qualÂiÂty of a lecÂture. Excerpts of the jourÂney are interÂspersed with sciÂenÂtifÂic and bioÂlogÂiÂcal obserÂvaÂtions.” And “just when the draÂmatÂic tenÂsion reachÂes its height, there are almost 20 inexÂplicÂaÂble minÂutes of nature footage, showÂing sea lions gamÂbolÂing, penÂguins and othÂer birds.”
Crisply restored in the 1990s, South “is best thought of as that mulÂti-media docÂuÂmenÂtary lecÂture that ShackÂleÂton would have preÂsentÂed with stills, paintÂings, film and music woven togethÂer to spin the yarn, and for Hurley’s exquisÂite phoÂtogÂraÂphy that keeps alive the stoÂry of that group of extraÂorÂdiÂnary men.” So writes BFI curaÂtor BryÂony Dixon in a recent piece on the miracÂuÂlous surÂvival of not just ShackÂleÂton and his men, but of HurÂley’s handÂiÂwork. And it was HurÂley who then went right back out to the island of South GeorÂgia to “take wildlife footage that the newsÂpaÂper ediÂtor Ernest PerÂris, who sponÂsored the film, was conÂvinced was needÂed to make the film interÂestÂing to the pubÂlic.” PerÂris was darÂing enough to fund the first docÂuÂmenÂtary feaÂture, but also preÂscient in his conÂcepÂtion of the form — a conÂcepÂtion proven definÂiÂtiveÂly right, more than eighty years latÂer, by the box-office perÂforÂmance of March of the PenÂguins.
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂterBooks on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall or on FaceÂbook.
There was a periÂod in the late 20th-cenÂtuÂry when havÂing hair long enough to sit on was conÂsidÂered someÂthing of an accomÂplishÂment.
JudgÂing by the long hair pins unearthed from Austria’s HallÂstatt burÂial site, extreme length was an earÂly Iron Age hair goal, too, posÂsiÂbly because a coroÂnet of thick braids made it easÂiÂer to balÂance a basÂket on your head or keep your veil secureÂly fasÂtened.
Gromer, the vice-head of the VienÂna NatÂurÂal HisÂtoÂry MuseÂum’s DepartÂment of PreÂhisÂtoÂry, pubÂlished preÂcise diaÂgrams showÂing the posiÂtion of the hair ornaÂments in relaÂtion to the occuÂpants of varÂiÂous graves.
For examÂple, the skeleÂton in grave 45, below, was disÂcovÂered with “10 bronze neeÂdles to the left of and below the skull, (and) parts of a bronze spiÂral roll in the neck area.”
Although no hair fibers surÂvive, researchers cross-refÂerÂencÂing the pins’ posiÂtion against figÂurÂal repÂreÂsenÂtaÂtions from periÂod artiÂfacts, have made a pretÂty eduÂcatÂed guess as to the sort of hair do this indiÂvidÂual may have sportÂed in life, or more accuÂrateÂly, givÂen the conÂtext, death.
As to the “bronze spiÂral roll” — which DonÂner perÂsists in referÂring to as a spiÂral “doobly doo” — it funcÂtioned much like a modÂern day elasÂtic band, preÂventÂing the braid from unravÂelÂling.
DonÂner twists hers from wire, after arrangÂing to have repliÂca hairÂpins cusÂtom made to hisÂtorÂiÂcalÂly accuÂrate dimenÂsions. (The manÂuÂfacÂturÂer, perÂhaps misÂunÂderÂstandÂing her interÂest in hisÂtoÂry, coatÂed them with an antiquing agent that had to be removed with “brass cleanÂer and a bit of rubÂbing.”
Most of the styles are variÂants on a bun. All withÂstand the “shake test” and would look right at home in a bridal magÂaÂzine.
Star Wars fans will be gratÂiÂfied to find not one, but two iconÂic Princess Leia looks.
Our favorites were the braidÂed loops and douÂble buns meant to be sportÂed beneath a veil.
“The braids do kind of act niceÂly as an anchor point for the veil to sit on,” DonÂner reports, “Not a lot of modÂern appliÂcaÂtion per se for this parÂticÂuÂlar style but it’s cute. It’s fun.”
Either would give you some seriÂous Medieval FesÂtiÂval street cred, even if you have to resort to extenÂsions.
Donner’s video gets a lot of love in the comÂments from a numÂber of archaeÂolÂoÂgy proÂfesÂsionÂals, includÂing a funerÂary archaeÂolÂoÂgist who praisÂes the way she deals with the “inherÂent issues of preserÂvaÂtion bias.”
The final nine minÂutes conÂtain a DIY tutoÂrÂiÂal for those who’d like to make their own hairÂpins, as well as the spiÂral “doobly doo”.
If you’re of a less crafty bent, a jewÂelÂry designÂer in FinÂland is sellÂing repliÂcas based on the grave finds of HallÂstatt culÂture on Etsy.
Watch a playlist of Donner’s hisÂtorÂiÂcal hair experÂiÂments and tutoÂriÂals, though a peek at her InstaÂgram reveals that she got a buzÂzÂcut last fall, curÂrentÂly grown out to pixÂie-ish length.
DownÂload Grömer’s illusÂtratÂed artiÂcle on HallÂstatt periÂod hairÂstyles and veils for free (in GerÂman) here.
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