
DurÂing the panÂdemÂic, Google launched a series of Career CerÂtifiÂcates that will “preÂpare learnÂers for an entry-levÂel role in under six months.” Their first cerÂtifiÂcates focused on Project ManÂageÂment, Data AnaÂlytÂics, User ExpeÂriÂence (UX) Design, IT SupÂport and IT AutomaÂtion. Now comes their latest–a cerÂtifiÂcate dedÂiÂcatÂed to DigÂiÂtal MarÂketÂing & E‑commerce.
Offered on the CoursÂera platÂform, the DigÂiÂtal MarÂketÂing & E‑commerce ProÂfesÂsionÂal CerÂtifiÂcate conÂsists of sevÂen coursÂes, all colÂlecÂtiveÂly designed to help stuÂdents “develÂop digÂiÂtal marÂketÂing and e‑commerce strateÂgies; attract and engage cusÂtomers through digÂiÂtal marÂketÂing chanÂnels like search and email; meaÂsure marÂketÂing anaÂlytÂics and share insights; build e‑commerce stores, anaÂlyze e‑commerce perÂforÂmance, and build cusÂtomer loyÂalÂty.” The coursÂes include:
In total, this proÂgram “includes over 190 hours of instrucÂtion and pracÂtice-based assessÂments, which simÂuÂlate real-world digÂiÂtal marÂketÂing and e‑commerce sceÂnarÂios that are critÂiÂcal for sucÂcess in the workÂplace.” Along the way, stuÂdents will learn how to use tools and platÂforms like CanÂva, ConÂstant ConÂtact, Google Ads, Google AnaÂlytÂics, HootÂsuite, HubÂSpot, Mailchimp, ShopiÂfy, and TwitÂter. You can start a 7‑day free triÂal and explore the coursÂes. If you conÂtinÂue beyond that, Google/Coursera will charge $39 USD per month. That transÂlates to about $235 after 6 months.
If you don’t want to pay, you can audit each course for free, withÂout ultiÂmateÂly receivÂing the cerÂtifiÂcate.
Explore the DigÂiÂtal MarÂketÂing & E‑commerce ProÂfesÂsionÂal CerÂtifiÂcate.
Note: Open CulÂture has a partÂnerÂship with CoursÂera. If readÂers enroll in cerÂtain CoursÂera coursÂes and proÂgrams, it helps supÂport Open CulÂture.
RelatÂed ConÂtent
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As someÂone who had masÂtered radio, film, and stage at such a young age, it shouldn’t be a surÂprise that Orson Welles once flirtÂed with the idea of runÂning for office. It nevÂer hapÂpened, but Welles got pretÂty close in 1944 by ghost-writÂing speechÂes for Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s re-elecÂtion camÂpaign. This in-depth artiÂcle at SmithÂsonÂian by Erick TrickÂey goes into greater detail about this mix of enterÂtainÂment and polÂiÂtics, and shows how both have always influÂenced each othÂer.
In the final four months of 1944, AmerÂiÂca was still at war with Japan and GerÂmany, and RooÂsevelt was seekÂing an unpreceÂdentÂed fourth term to bring the war to a close. Roosevelt’s RepubÂliÂcan chalÂlenger Thomas Dewey quesÂtioned the ailÂing president’s staÂmiÂna and wellÂness for the job, along with accuÂsaÂtions of corÂrupÂtion and incomÂpeÂtence.
Welles was still Hollywood’s goldÂen boy, with a career that had takÂen off durÂing Roosevelt’s secÂond term with his infaÂmous War of the Worlds radio play, pickÂing up on America’s pre-war paraÂnoia. It had conÂtinÂued through 1941’s CitÂiÂzen Kane and its thinÂly veiled attack on William RanÂdolph Hearst and othÂer oliÂgarchs. Welles’ voice carÂried authorÂiÂty and gravÂiÂtas. He was also marÂried to Rita HayÂworth at the time, and enjoyÂing the upside of HolÂlyÂwood sucÂcess.
RooÂsevelt engaged the left-wing Welles in the last month of the camÂpaign and soon the actor was travÂelÂing the counÂtry and delivÂerÂing speechÂes at ralÂlies for FDR. In one stop he called RepubÂliÂcans “the parÂtiÂsans of privÂiÂlege, the chamÂpiÂons of monopÂoly, the old oppoÂnents of libÂerÂty, the deterÂmined adverÂsaries of the small busiÂness and the small farm.”
Welles also supÂplied ideas and jokes for FDR’s speechÂes. When Dewey and othÂer RepubÂliÂcans attacked FDR’s dog Fala, Welles’ penned this: “Well, of course, I don’t resent attacks, and my famÂiÂly doesn’t resent attacks — but Fala does resent them. You know, Fala is Scotch, and being a ScotÂtie, as soon as he learned that the RepubÂliÂcan ficÂtion writÂers, in ConÂgress and out, had conÂcoctÂed a stoÂry that I had left him behind on the AleutÂian Islands and had sent a destroyÂer back to find him — at a cost to the taxÂpayÂers of 2 or 3 or 8 or $20 milÂlion — his Scotch soul was furiÂous. He has not been the same dog since.”
The AmerÂiÂcan pubÂlic seemed to agree that going after a pet was a bit too much. The nationÂalÂly broadÂcast speech turned FDR’s forÂtunes around. And at FDR’s final ralÂly at FenÂway Park in Boston, the presÂiÂdent introÂduced both Welles (“The DraÂmatÂic Voice”) and Frank SinaÂtra (“The Voice”). Welles spoke out against GOP elitÂism: “By free enterÂprise they want excluÂsive right to freeÂdom. They are stuÂpid enough to think that a few can enjoy prosÂperÂiÂty at the expense of the rest.”
Days latÂer, FDR won 53 perÂcent of the popÂuÂlar vote and took the elecÂtoral colÂlege, 432–99. In one sense though, Dewey’s attacks on FDR’s health were foundÂed: RooÂsevelt died five months latÂer on April 12, 1945.
FDR had writÂten to Welles to thank him for the ralÂly, but also wrote about that April’s meetÂing of the UnitÂed Nations. The man had the weight of the free world upon his shoulÂders, and Welles felt it. The artist wrote a euloÂgy for FDR for the New York Post:
DesÂperÂateÂly we need his courage and his skill and wisÂdom and his great heart. He moved ahead of us showÂing a way into the future. If we lose that way, or fall beside it, we have lost him indeed. Our tears would mock him who nevÂer wept except when he could do no more than weep. If we despair. because he’s gone — he who stood against despair — he had as well nevÂer have lived, he who lived so greatÂly.
You can read it online here.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
Hear Orson Welles’ IconÂic War of the Worlds BroadÂcast (1938)
Rare Video Shows FDR WalkÂing: Filmed at the 1937 All-Star Game
LisÂten to Eight InterÂviews of Orson Welles by FilmÂmakÂer Peter BogÂdanovich (RIP)
The Hearts of Age: Orson Welles’ SurÂreÂalÂist First Film (1934)
Ted Mills is a freeÂlance writer on the arts who curÂrentÂly hosts the Notes from the Shed podÂcast and is the proÂducÂer of KCRÂW’s CuriÂous Coast. You can also folÂlow him on TwitÂter at @tedmills, and/or watch his films here.
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“ExisÂtenÂtialÂism is both a phiÂlosÂoÂphy and a mood,” says Hazel Barnes by way of openÂing the teleÂviÂsion series Self-Encounter: A Study in ExisÂtenÂtialÂism. “As a mood, I think we could say that it is the mood of the twenÂtiÂeth cenÂtuÂry — or, at least, of those peoÂple in the twenÂtiÂeth cenÂtuÂry who are disÂconÂtent with things as they are. It expressÂes the feelÂing that, someÂhow or othÂer, all of those sysÂtems — whether they be social, psyÂchoÂlogÂiÂcal, or sciÂenÂtifÂic — which have attemptÂed to define and explain and deterÂmine man, have someÂhow missed the livÂing indiÂvidÂual perÂson.”
ExisÂtenÂtialÂism was on the rise in 1961, when Barnes spoke those words, and the subÂseÂquent six decades have arguably done litÂtle to assuage its disÂconÂtent. By the time of Self-Encounter’s broadÂcast in ’61, Barnes was already well-known in philoÂsophÂiÂcal cirÂcles for her EngÂlish transÂlaÂtion of Jean-Paul Sartre’s Being and NothÂingÂness. When she took on that job, with what she latÂer described as “three years of badÂly taught high school French and one yearÂlong course in colÂlege, and a bare minÂiÂmum of backÂground in phiÂlosÂoÂphy,” she couldÂn’t have known that it would set her on the road to becomÂing the most famous popÂuÂlarÂizÂer of exisÂtenÂtialÂism in AmerÂiÂca.
Five years after the pubÂliÂcaÂtion of Barnes’ Sartre transÂlaÂtion, along came the opporÂtuÂniÂty to host a ten-part series on NationÂal PubÂlic EduÂcaÂtionÂal TeleÂviÂsion (a preÂdeÂcesÂsor of PBS) explainÂing Sartre’s thought as well as that of othÂer writÂers like Simone de BeauÂvoir, Albert Camus, and Richard Wright, between dramaÂtiÂzaÂtions of scenes drawn from exisÂtenÂtialÂist litÂerÂaÂture. Self-Encounter was once “thought to be entireÂly lost, the origÂiÂnal tapes havÂing been reportÂed recordÂed over,” writes Nick Nielsen. But after the series’ unexÂpectÂed redisÂcovÂery in 2017, all of its episodes gradÂuÂalÂly made their way to the web. You can watch all ten of them straight through in the nearÂly five-hour video at the top of the post, or view them one-by-one at the AmerÂiÂcan Archive of PubÂlic BroadÂcastÂing.
“Self Encounter was proÂduced in 1961 and first broadÂcast in 1962,” Nielsen writes. “I canÂnot help but note that Route 66 aired from 1960 to 1964, The OutÂer LimÂits aired from 1963 to 1965, Rawhide aired from 1959 to 1965, and PerÂry Mason aired from 1957 to 1966” — not to menÂtion The TwiÂlight Zone, from 1959 to 1964. “It would be difÂfiÂcult to name anothÂer teleÂviÂsion milieu of comÂpaÂraÂble depth. Our menÂtal image of this periÂod of AmerÂiÂcan hisÂtoÂry as being one of stiÂfling conÂforÂmiÂty is belied by these dark perÂspecÂtives on human nature.” And as for the social, psyÂchoÂlogÂiÂcal, sciÂenÂtifÂic, and of course techÂnoÂlogÂiÂcal sysÂtems in effect today, the exisÂtenÂtialÂists would sureÂly take a dim view of their potenÂtial to libÂerÂate us from conÂforÂmiÂty — or any othÂer aspect of the human conÂdiÂtion.
RelatÂed conÂtent:
ExisÂtenÂtialÂism with Hubert DreyÂfus: Five Free PhiÂlosÂoÂphy CoursÂes
ExisÂtenÂtial PhiÂlosÂoÂphy of Kierkegaard, Sartre, Camus Explained with 8‑Bit Video Games
Based in Seoul, ColÂin MarÂshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities, the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles and the video series The City in CinÂeÂma. FolÂlow him on TwitÂter at @colinmarshall, on FaceÂbook, or on InstaÂgram.
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The flapÂper is the RoarÂing 20s’ endurÂing emblem — a libÂerÂatÂed, young woman with bobbed hair, rolled down stockÂings, and a pubÂlic thirst for cockÂtails.
(My grandÂmothÂer longed to be one, and sucÂceedÂed, as best one could in Cairo, IlliÂnois, only to marÂry an oldÂer man at the age of 17, and give birth to my father a few months before the stock marÂket crashed, bringÂing the frivÂoÂliÂty of the decade to an abrupt halt.)
Our abidÂing affecÂtion for the flapÂper is stoked on F. Scott FitzgerÂald’s Jazz Age novelÂla, The Great GatsÂby, and its many stage and screen adapÂtaÂtions, with their depicÂtions of wild parÂties feaÂturÂing guests like Miss BaedeckÂer (“When she’s had five or six cockÂtails she always starts screamÂing like that”) and Lucille (“I nevÂer care what I do, so I always have a good time.”)


The vinÂtage fashÂion blog GlamÂour Daze’s newÂly colÂorized footage of a 1929 fashÂion show in BufÂfaÂlo, New York, at the top of this post, presents a vastÂly more sedate image than FitzgerÂald, or Ethel Hays, whose sinÂgle-panÂel daiÂly carÂtoon FlapÂper FanÂny was wildÂly popÂuÂlar with both young women and men of the time.

The scene it presents seems more wholeÂsome than one might have found in New York City, with what FitzgerÂald dubbed its “wild promise of all the mysÂtery and the beauÂty in the world”. The modÂels seem more eager amaÂteurs than runÂway proÂfesÂsionÂals, though lined up jaunÂtiÂly on a wall, all exhibÂit “nice stems.”
My young grandÂmothÂer would have gone ga ga for the cloche hats, tea dressÂes, bathing suits, loungÂing pajaÂmas, golf and tenÂnis ensemÂbles, and evening gowns, though the Deep ExemÂplar-based Video ColÂorizaÂtion process seems to have stained some modÂels’ skin and teeth by misÂtake.
The origÂiÂnal black and white footage is part of the UniÂverÂsiÂty of South Carolina’s Fox MoviÂetone News colÂlecÂtion, whose othÂer fashÂion-relatÂed clips from 1929 include preÂsenÂtaÂtions feaÂturÂing WashÂingÂton debuÂtantes and colÂlege coeds.
Added sound brings the periÂod to life with nary a menÂtion of the Charleston or gin, though if you want a feel for 20s fashÂion, check out the colÂlecÂtion’s non-silent MoviÂetone clip devotÂed to the latÂest in 1929 swimwear — this is a modÂernistic beach ensemÂble of rayÂon jerÂsey with diagÂoÂnal stripes and a sun back cut…
It’s the cat’s pajaÂmas. As is this playlist of hits from 1929.
Explore GlamÂour Daze’s guide to 1920s fashÂion hisÂtoÂry here.
Watch the origÂiÂnal black and white footage of the BufÂfaÂlo, New York fashÂion show here.
- Ayun HalÂlÂiÂday is the Chief PriÂmaÂtolÂoÂgist of the East VilÂlage Inky zine and author, most recentÂly, of CreÂative, Not Famous: The Small PotaÂto ManÂiÂfesto. FolÂlow her @AyunHalliday.
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No 90s band flew as low under that radar as CamÂbridge, MassÂaÂchuÂsetts three-piece MorÂphine. Too odd for nosÂtalÂgia radio, not comÂmerÂcial enough to pop up on a big-time modÂern soundÂtrack, MorÂphine either means nothÂing to you or, if you were in the right place at the right time, everyÂthing.
YouTube chanÂnel Rock n’ Roll True StoÂries would like more peoÂple to disÂcovÂer MorÂphine and their introÂducÂtion video does an adeÂquate job of stitchÂing togethÂer interÂview quotes, band pics, and some daffy stock phoÂtogÂraÂphy. The only thing missÂing: actuÂal examÂples of their music. We’ll get to that in just a bit.
MorÂphine were someÂwhere between a rock band and a jazz trio. Led by Mark SandÂman, the group conÂsistÂed of drumÂmers Jerome Deupree or BilÂly ConÂway, and saxÂoÂphonÂist Dana ColÂley, with Sandman’s two-string bass front and cenÂter. “In a pop uniÂverse where every singer, guiÂtarist, and keyÂboardist instincÂtiveÂly goes to a highÂer note to attract attenÂtion,” wrote the WashÂingÂton Post at the time, “MorÂphine stays hunÂkered down low.”
Live, SandÂman mostÂly kept to his bass, but on their five albums, he also includÂed homeÂmade instruÂments like the “triÂtar,” conÂsistÂing of two guiÂtar strings and a bass string. He also added piano and keyÂboards to the mix. ColÂley someÂtimes played two saxÂes at once, or he switched out his main bariÂtone for sopraÂno, tenor, or bass saxÂoÂphones.
After their first indie release Good in 1992, Rykodisc signed the band. But MorÂphine remained as resÂoluteÂly anti-comÂmerÂcial as they could, turnÂing down offers to license their songs for comÂmerÂcials. (Ryko, howÂevÂer, could license their music for TV and movies withÂout the band’s approval.) “You Look Like Rain” was a colÂlege radio “hit”; “BueÂna” was the sinÂgle release. There’s a bit of Tom Waits or Nick Cave in his voice; a bit of be-bop by way of Twin Peaks in the music. It’s a forÂmuÂla they tweaked, altered, and perÂfectÂed. Their critÂiÂcal apex came with the album Cure for Pain in 1993, but each sucÂcesÂsive album sold more units. The label DreamÂworks took over from Ryko, but SandÂman felt they were pushÂing the band to be someÂthing they were not, a “new Beck” or a sound beyond the trio of instruÂments. But they didn’t falÂter and remained true to themÂselves.
Instead, the band endÂed when SandÂman sufÂfered a heart attack on stage in 1999, posÂsiÂbly due to stress and the oppresÂsive heat of the venue itself. Their fifth and final album The Night was released posthuÂmousÂly. The surÂvivÂing memÂbers have formed a few MorÂphine-adjaÂcent bands since, as well as startÂing a scholÂarÂship in Sandman’s name.
Ryko recentÂly re-released their earÂly discogÂraÂphy on vinyl with bonus tracks, so a new genÂerÂaÂtion is poised to disÂcovÂer MorÂphine, look around and wonÂder, who else knows about this band? That’s how it starts.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
A MasÂsive 800-Track Playlist of 90s Indie & AlterÂnaÂtive Music, in ChronoÂlogÂiÂcal Order
Stream a MasÂsive ColÂlecÂtion of Indie, Noise IndusÂtriÂal MixÂtapes from the 80s and 90s
Ted Mills is a freeÂlance writer on the arts who curÂrentÂly hosts the Notes from the Shed podÂcast and is the proÂducÂer of KCRÂW’s CuriÂous Coast. You can also folÂlow him on TwitÂter at @tedmills, and/or watch his films here.
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For the past 15 years, we’ve been busy rumÂmagÂing around the interÂnet and adding coursÂes to an ever-growÂing list of Free Online CoursÂes, which now feaÂtures 1,700 coursÂes from top uniÂverÂsiÂties. Let’s give you the quick overview: The list lets you downÂload audio & video lecÂtures from schools like StanÂford, Yale, MIT, Oxford, HarÂvard and many othÂer instiÂtuÂtions. GenÂerÂalÂly, the coursÂes can be accessed via YouTube, iTunes or uniÂverÂsiÂty web sites, and you can lisÂten to the lecÂtures anyÂtime, anyÂwhere, on your comÂputÂer or smart phone. We haven’t done a preÂcise calÂcuÂlaÂtion, but there’s about 50,000 hours of free audio & video lecÂtures here. Enough to keep you busy for a very long time–something that’s useÂful durÂing these socialÂly disÂtant times.
Right now you’ll find 200 free phiÂlosÂoÂphy coursÂes, 105 free hisÂtoÂry coursÂes, 170 free comÂputÂer sciÂence coursÂes, 85 free physics coursÂes and 55 Free LitÂerÂaÂture CoursÂes in the colÂlecÂtion, and that’s just beginÂning to scratch the surÂface. You can peruse secÂtions covÂerÂing AstronÂoÂmy, BiolÂoÂgy, BusiÂness, ChemÂistry, EcoÂnomÂics, EngiÂneerÂing, Math, PolitÂiÂcal SciÂence, PsyÂcholÂoÂgy and ReliÂgion.
Here are some highÂlights from the comÂplete list of Free Online CoursÂes. We’ve added a few unconventional/vintage coursÂes in the mix just to keep things interÂestÂing.
The comÂplete list of coursÂes can be accessed here: 1,700 Free Online CoursÂes from Top UniÂverÂsiÂties. For more enrichÂing mateÂrÂiÂal, see our othÂer colÂlecÂtions below.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
1,000 Free Audio Books: DownÂload Great Books for Free.
4,000+ Free Movies Online: Great ClasÂsics, Indies, Noir, WestÂerns, DocÂuÂmenÂtaries & More.
Learn 45+ LanÂguages Online for Free: SpanÂish, ChiÂnese, EngÂlish & More.
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You rememÂber it — one of the most heartÂbreakÂing scenes on TV. A man longs for nothÂing more than time to read, to be free of all those peoÂple Sartre told us make our hells. FinalÂly grantÂed his wish by the H‑Bomb, he then acciÂdenÂtalÂly break his glassÂes, renÂderÂing himÂself unable make out a word. Oh, cruÂel irony! Not an optometrist or optiÂcian in sight! SureÂly, there are “Time Enough at Last” jokes at eye care conÂvenÂtions worldÂwide.
MoralÂiÂty tales wrapped in sciÂence ficÂtion might make us think about all sorts of things, but one of the most obviÂous quesÂtions when we witÂness the fate of Mr. HenÂry Bemis, “charÂter memÂber in the fraÂterÂniÂty of dreamÂers,” might be, but what did peoÂple do before corÂrecÂtive lensÂes? Were milÂlions forced to accept his fate, livÂing out their lives with farÂsightÂedÂness, nearÂsightÂedÂness, and othÂer defects that impede vision? How did earÂly humans surÂvive in times much less hosÂpitable to disÂabilÂiÂties? At least there were othÂers to read and describe things for them.…
In truth, the TwiÂlight Zone is not far off the mark. Or at least nearÂsightÂedÂness and readÂing are closeÂly linked. “As long as priÂmates have been around, there’s probÂaÂbly been myopia,” says proÂfesÂsor of ophÂthalÂmolÂoÂgy Ivan Schwab. But Schwab argues in his book EvoÂluÂtion’s WitÂness: How Eyes Evolved that the rise of readÂing likeÂly caused skyÂrockÂetÂing rates of myopia over the past three hunÂdred years. “Though genes and nutriÂtion may play a role in nearÂsightÂedÂness,” NatalÂie Jacewicz writes at NPR, “[Schwab] says eduÂcaÂtion and myopia seem to be linked, sugÂgestÂing that when peoÂple do a lot of close work, their eyes grow longer.”
As the HisÂtoÂry Dose video above explains, the oldÂest image of a pair of glassÂes dates from a 1351 paintÂing of CarÂdiÂnal Hugh of Saint-Cher. The paintÂing is an anachroÂnism — specÂtaÂcles, the narÂraÂtor tells us, were inventÂed 23 years earÂliÂer in Pisa, after the carÂdiÂnal’s death. They “gradÂuÂalÂly spread across Europe and travÂelled the Silk Road to ChiÂna.” (The oldÂest surÂvivÂing pair of glassÂes dates from around 1475). So what hapÂpened before 1286? As you’ll learn, glassÂes were not the only way to enlarge small items. In fact, humans have been using some form of magÂniÂfyÂing lens to read small print (or manÂuÂscript or cuneiform or what-have-you) for thouÂsands of years. Those lensÂes, howÂevÂer, corÂrectÂed presÂbyÂopia, or far-sightÂedÂness.

Those with myopia were mostÂly out of luck until the invenÂtion of sophisÂtiÂcatÂed lens-grindÂing techÂniques and improved vision tests. But for most of human hisÂtoÂry, unless you were a sailor or a solÂdier, you “likeÂly spent your day as an artiÂsan, smith, or farm workÂer,” occuÂpaÂtions where disÂtance vision didÂn’t matÂter as much. In fact, artiÂsans like medieval scribes and illuÂmiÂnaÂtors, says Neil HanÂdÂley — museÂum curaÂtor of the ColÂlege of Optometrists, LonÂdon — were “actuÂalÂly encourÂaged to remain in their myopic conÂdiÂtion, because it was actuÂalÂly ideÂal for them doing this job.”
It wasÂn’t until well after the time of GutenÂberg that wearÂing lensÂes on one’s face became a thing — and hardÂly a popÂuÂlar thing at first. EarÂly glassÂes were held up to the eyes, not worn. They were heavy, thick, and fragÂile. In the 15th cenÂtuÂry, “because… they were unusuÂal and rare,” says HanÂdÂley, “they were seen as havÂing magÂiÂcal powÂers” and their wearÂers viewed as “in league with the devÂil, immoral.” That stigÂma went away, even if glassÂes picked up othÂer assoÂciÂaÂtions that someÂtimes made their users the subÂject of taunts. But by the nineÂteenth cenÂtuÂry, glassÂes were comÂmon around the world.
GivÂen that we all spend most of our time interÂactÂing with small text and images on handÂheld screens, it seems maybe they haven’t spread wideÂly enough. “More than a bilÂlion, and maybe as many as 2.5 bilÂlion, peoÂple in the world need but don’t have glassÂes to corÂrect for varÂiÂous vision impairÂments,” notes LiveÂscience, citÂing figÂures from The New York Times. For many peoÂple, espeÂcialÂly in the develÂopÂing world, the quesÂtion of how to get by in the world withÂout eyeÂglassÂes is still a very pressÂing, present-day issue.
RelatÂed ConÂtent:
The World’s OldÂest SurÂvivÂing Pair of GlassÂes (CirÂca 1475)
James Joyce, With His EyeÂsight FailÂing, Draws a Sketch of Leopold Bloom (1926)
Josh Jones is a writer and musiÂcian based in Durham, NC. FolÂlow him at @jdmagness
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What does it take to wear an ancient Roman toga with digÂniÂty and grace?
JudgÂing from the above demonÂstraÂtion by Dr Mary HarÂlow, AssoÂciate ProÂfesÂsor of Ancient HisÂtoÂry at the UniÂverÂsiÂty of LeicesÂter, a couÂple of helpers, who, in the first cenÂtuÂry CE, would have invariÂably been enslaved, and thus inelÂiÂgiÂble for togas of their own.
The iconÂic outÂer garÂments, traÂdiÂtionÂalÂly made of wool, begin as sinÂgle, 12–16m lengths of fabÂric.
Extra hands were needÂed to keep the cloth from dragÂging on the dirty floor while the wearÂer was being wrapped, to secure the garÂment with addiÂtionÂal pleats and tucks, and to creÂate the pouch-like umbo at chest levÂel, in a manÂner as aesÂthetÂiÂcalÂly pleasÂing as every othÂer fold and drape was expectÂed to be.
As forÂmal citizen’s garb, the toga was suitÂable for virÂtuÂalÂly every pubÂlic occaÂsion, as well as an audiÂence with the emperÂor.
In addiÂtion to slaves, the toga was off-limÂits to forÂeignÂers, freedÂmen, and, with the notable excepÂtion of adulÂterÂessÂes and prosÂtiÂtutes, women.
WealthÂiÂer indiÂvidÂuÂals flauntÂed their staÂtus by accentÂing their outÂfit with stripes of TyrÂiÂan PurÂple.
The BBC reports that dying even a sinÂgle small swatch of fabÂric this shade “took tens of thouÂsands of desÂicÂcatÂed hypoÂbranchial glands wrenched from the calÂciÂfied coils of spiny murex sea snails” and that thus dyed, the fibers “retained the stench of the invertebrate’s marine excreÂtions.”
AchievÂing that TyrÂiÂan PurÂple hue was “a very smelly process,” Dr. HarÂlow conÂfirms, “but if you could retain a litÂtle bit of that fishy smell in your final garÂment, it would show your colÂleagues that you could afford the best.”
GivÂen the launÂdry-relatÂed revÂeÂlaÂtions of some toga invesÂtiÂgatÂing stuÂdents in SalÂisÂbury UniÂverÂsiÂty’s DepartÂment of TheÂatre and Dance study abroad proÂgram, above, a fishy odor might not have been the greatÂest olfacÂtoÂry chalÂlenge assoÂciÂatÂed with this garÂment.
The stuÂdents also share how toga-clad Romans dealt with stairs, and introÂduce viewÂers to 5 forms of toga:
Toga VirÂilis — the toga of manÂhood
Toga PraeÂtexÂta — the pre-toga of manÂhood toga
Toga PulÂla — a dark mournÂing toga
Toga CanÂdiÂda- a chalk whitened toga sportÂed by those runÂning for office
Toga PicÂta- to be worn by genÂerÂals, praeÂtors celÂeÂbratÂing games and conÂsuls. The emperor’s toga picÂta was dyed purÂple. Uh-oh.

Their youthÂful enthuÂsiÂasm for antiqÂuiÂty is rousÂing, though QuinÂtilÂian, the first cenÂtuÂry CE eduÂcaÂtor and expert in rhetoric might have had some thoughts on their clownÂish antics.
He cerÂtainÂly had a lot of thoughts about togas, which he shared in his instrucÂtive masÂterÂwork, InstiÂtuÂtio OraÂtoÂria:
The toga itself should, in my opinÂion, be round, and cut to fit, othÂerÂwise there are a numÂber of ways in which it may be unshapeÂly. Its front edge should by prefÂerÂence reach to the midÂdle of the shin, while the back should be highÂer in proÂporÂtion as the girÂdle is highÂer
behind than in front. The fold is most becomÂing, if it fall to a point a litÂtle above the lowÂer edge of the tunic, and should cerÂtainÂly nevÂer fall below it. The othÂer fold which passÂes obliqueÂly like a belt under the right shoulÂder and over the left, should neiÂther be too tight nor too loose. The porÂtion of the toga which is last to be arranged should fall rather low, since it will sit betÂter thus and be kept in its place. A porÂtion of the tunic also should be drawn back in order that it may not fall over the arm when we are pleadÂing, and the fold should be thrown over the shoulÂder, while it will not be unbeÂcomÂing if the edge be turned back. On the othÂer hand, we should not covÂer the shoulÂder and the whole of the throat, othÂerÂwise our dress will be unduÂly narÂrowed and will lose the impresÂsive effect proÂduced by breadth at the chest. The left arm should only be raised so far as to form a right angle at the elbow, while the edge of the toga should fall in equal lengths on either side.
QuinÂtilÂlian was willÂing to let some of his high stanÂdards slide if the wearer’s toga had been untiÂdied by the heat of rousÂing oraÂtion:
When, howÂevÂer, our speech draws near its close, more espeÂcialÂly if forÂtune shows herÂself kind, pracÂtiÂcalÂly everyÂthing is becomÂing; we may stream with sweat, show signs of fatigue, and let our dress fall in careÂless disÂorÂder and the toga slip loose from us on every side…On the othÂer hand, if the toga falls down at the beginÂning of our speech, or when we have only proÂceedÂed but a litÂtle way, the failÂure to replace it is a sign of indifÂferÂence, or sloth, or sheer ignoÂrance of the way in which clothes should be worn.
We’re pretÂty sure he would have frowned on clasÂsiÂcal archaeÂolÂoÂgist ShelÂby Brown’s experÂiÂments using a twin-size poly-blend bed sheet in advance of an earÂly 21st-cenÂtuÂry ColÂlege Night at the GetÂty VilÂla.
ProspecÂtive guests were encourÂaged to attend in their “best togas.”
Could it be that the parÂty planÂners , enviÂsionÂing a civÂiÂlized night of phoÂto booths, clasÂsiÂcal art viewÂing, and light refreshÂments in the HerÂcuÂlaÂneum-inspired GetÂty VilÂla, were so ignoÂrant of 1978’s notoÂriÂous John Belushi vehiÂcle AniÂmal House?
…Estne volÂuÂmen in toga, an solum tibi libet me videre?
RelatÂed ConÂtent
Roman StatÂues Weren’t White; They Were Once PaintÂed in Vivid, Bright ColÂors
ArchaeÂolÂoÂgists DisÂcovÂer an Ancient Roman SanÂdal with Nails Used for Tread
- Ayun HalÂlÂiÂday is the Chief PriÂmaÂtolÂoÂgist of the East VilÂlage Inky zine and author, most recentÂly, of CreÂative, Not Famous: The Small PotaÂto ManÂiÂfesto. FolÂlow her @AyunHalliday.
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“This is a perÂson who is proÂfoundÂly uncomÂfortÂable addressÂing an audiÂence and yet puts himÂself in that posiÂtion,” David Byrne told StuÂdio 360’s Kurt AnderÂson in 2019, as they watched some of the above footage of his 23-year-old self fronting a live TalkÂing Heads’ perÂforÂmance back in 1976.
EveryÂthing was pretÂty new back in that BicenÂtenÂniÂal year.
TalkÂing Heads had formed the year before, when Byrne and drumÂmer Chris Frantz, who’d been bandÂmates at the Rhode Island ColÂlege of Design, moved to New York City with Frantz’s girlÂfriend, bassist Tina WeyÂmouth.
The venue hostÂing this live perÂforÂmance, New York City’s legÂendary experÂiÂmenÂtal art space, The Kitchen, was slightÂly less wet behind the ears, havÂing opened its doors in 1971. (Some 30 years latÂer, elder statesÂman Byrne was the guest of honÂor at its annuÂal spring gala.)
HowÂevÂer you define it — New Wave, no wave, post-punk art pop — the band’s sound was also fresh, though Byrne sugÂgests, in the interÂview with AnderÂson, there was nothÂing new about his youthÂful cockÂiÂness:
…like a lot of bands, artists, everyÂthing else, any periÂod realÂly, you tend to think that, um, the perÂvaÂsive stuff around you is crap and you and your friends are…we’re doing the real stuff.
And optiÂmistiÂcalÂly, one might think, since we’re doing the real stuff and it has real soul and pasÂsion, and it’s of its moment, it repÂreÂsents its moment, and so immodÂestÂly, you think, “Of course! Things are just going to fall into your lap because you’re doing someÂthing that has some truth to it. Uh…that cerÂtainÂly doesn’t always hapÂpen.
It hapÂpened comÂparÂaÂtiveÂly quickÂly for TalkÂing Heads.
SevÂerÂal of the songs they perÂformed as a trio that March night at the Kitchen made it onto TalkÂing Heads: 77, the debut stuÂdio album recordÂed bareÂly a year latÂer, by which time a fourth memÂber, JerÂry HarÂriÂson, had joined on keyÂboards and guiÂtar.
Of parÂticÂuÂlar note above is PsyÂcho Killer, which earned the band both notoÂriÂety, owing to the coinÂciÂdenÂtal timÂing of 1976 and 1977’s Son of Sam murÂders, and their first BillÂboard Hot 100 spot.
“This song was writÂten a long time ago,” the young Byrne stutÂters into the microÂphone at the Kitchen, then apolÂoÂgizes for fidÂdling with his clothes and equipÂment.
(“It’s all good!” Frantz calls out encourÂagÂingÂly from behind his drum kit.)
AccordÂing to the linÂer notes of Once in a LifeÂtime: The Best of TalkÂing Heads, Byrne began work on the song in colÂlege:
When I startÂed writÂing this (I got help latÂer), I imagÂined Alice CoopÂer doing a Randy NewÂman-type balÂlad. Both the JokÂer and HanÂniÂbal Lecter were much more fasÂciÂnatÂing than the good guys. EveryÂbody sort of roots for the bad guys in movies.
Fans may note a disÂparÂiÂty in the lyrics between this perÂforÂmance and recordÂed verÂsions of the song. Here, the secÂond verse goes:
LisÂten to me, now I’ve passed the test
I think I’m cute, I think I’m the best
Skirt tight, don’t like that style
Don’t critÂiÂcize what I know is worthÂwhile
PsyÂcho Killer stayed on the shelf for David Byrne’s AmerÂiÂcan Utopia, the BroadÂway show recentÂly filmed by Spike Lee. But it gave a far more polÂished Byrne an excelÂlent openÂer for TalkÂing Heads’ 1984 conÂcert film, Stop MakÂing Sense.
The uncomÂfortÂable young frontÂman dressed like a “proÂleÂtariÂat everyÂman,” who the Kitchen’s press release described as “a cross between Ralph NadÂer, Lou Reed, and Tony Perkins.” And he has since manÂaged to acquire some impresÂsive perÂforÂmance chops over the course of a still flourÂishÂing career.
This is your chance to catch him at that awkÂward age when, as Byrne told Kirk AnderÂson, he perÂformed “because he had to”:
There was this means of comÂmuÂniÂcaÂtion that was being a perÂformer and writÂing songs and singing them (that) was a way of, kind of being present to othÂer peoÂple — not just girls, but othÂer peoÂple in genÂerÂal.
Setlist for The Kitchen, March 13, 1976:
00:00 — Introduction/soundcheck
02:13 — The Girls Want To Be With the Girls (FeaÂtured on More Songs About BuildÂings and Food in 1978)
06:05 — PsyÂcho Killer (FeaÂtured on TalkÂing Heads: 77 in 1977, with difÂferÂent lyrics)
The lyrics of the 2nd verse of PsyÂcho Killer is difÂferÂent from the recordÂed verÂsion!
10:55 — I Feel It In My Heart (FeaÂtured on the deluxe verÂsion of TalkÂing Heads: 77, with difÂferÂent lyrics)
15:28 — I Wish You WouldÂn’t Say That (FeaÂtured on the deluxe verÂsion of TalkÂing Heads: 77)
18:15 — InforÂmaÂtion about the recordÂing
19:00 — Stay HunÂgry (FeaÂtured on More Songs About BuildÂings and Food)
24:35 — I Want To Live (FeaÂtured on comÂpiÂlaÂtions such as Sand in the VaseÂline, 1992 and Bonus RarÂiÂties & OutÂtakes, 2006)
29:48 — TenÂtaÂtive DeciÂsions (FeaÂtured on TalkÂing Heads: 77)
32:55 — No ComÂpasÂsion (assumed, video ends before song starts)
RelatÂed ConÂtent
Watch the TalkÂing Heads Play a VinÂtage ConÂcert in SyraÂcuse (1978)
The TalkÂing Heads Play CBGB, the New York Club that Shaped Their Sound (1975)
- Ayun HalÂlÂiÂday is the Chief PriÂmaÂtolÂoÂgist of the East VilÂlage Inky zine and author, most recentÂly, of CreÂative, Not Famous: The Small PotaÂto ManÂiÂfesto. FolÂlow her @AyunHalliday.
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“After years of threats, Vladimir Putin’s RussÂian forces invadÂed Ukraine—culminating in the largest attack against one EuroÂpean state by anothÂer since the SecÂond World War. What hapÂpens now?”
Above, you can watch a wide-rangÂing conÂverÂsaÂtion hostÂed by The Atlantic, feaÂturÂing Anne AppleÂbaum (Pulitzer-prize winÂning hisÂtoÂriÂan), Tom Nichols (U.S. Naval War ColÂlege proÂfesÂsor), and JefÂfrey GoldÂberg (ediÂtor-in-chief of The Atlantic) as they examÂine “the globÂal reacÂtion, the effecÂtiveÂness of sancÂtions, and how to address the rise of authorÂiÂtarÂiÂanÂism and ongoÂing threats to democÂraÂcy.” It’s also worth readÂing AppleÂbaum’s latÂest piece, “The ImposÂsiÂble SudÂdenÂly Became PosÂsiÂble.”
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